Here I bring you the latest work that I have done. It’s the 8180 HAT Miniatures reference that brings us a set dedicated to the British colonial wars. This set shows a Gardner gun of the Royal Navy which could be installed both on a ship and on land.
The Set includes four of these guns with support for ships or wheels to be used on the ground. It comes with two gunners, an officer, and three sailors with rifle. Likewise, it also includes three additional heads wearing the typical sailor hat, if you want to represent them by shooting from a boat.
The material of which it is made is the typical HAT soft plastic to which we are accustomed, which has given me more than one problem, taking me even having to replace and remodel parts in the assembly. Modelling in the Canyon is decent, but the soldiers is nothing short of horrible especially in the faces and the sables. It exasperate me so much that I decided to paint them as they were, rather than lose a big amount of time in remodelling the non-existent faces, good luck for us, with the hats they are hardly visible.
Paint (Base colour):
Hat / edge of the scarf / pants: white.
Jackets: Dark blue.
Wood rifle and boots: brown
Barrel guns and pistol: Boltgun Metal.
Skin: Tallarn Flesh.
To paint them has been simple, just I have applied the base colour over black primer colour, then I applied a layer of Devlam Mud and after drying, I applied a light with the same tone of the base colour. The figure does not deserve more effort, because although it is a good acquisition for the cheap and the quantity, the quality offered does not give satisfaction in the painted.
I recommend you to change wheel and barrel joints by metal bolts.
Even so, if you want to form a Colonial army is a good acquisition which you can buy here.
RedBox sometimes gets a bit of bad press for it´s sculpting but not from me. They come out with some pretty original ranges and subject matter, and this set (along with the “sister” Policemen and citizens) is no exception. My only complaint about the set is the flash. Virtually every figure had some flash and a couple were virtually “buried” in it. Still, with a fine scalpel and a bit of time this is quickly dealt with and the figures appear in a much better light. They may be a bit stumpy in thiestatures but this gives them a sort of ulp / Comic book style which is IMHO a real attraction of this set. The clothing is all okay, not 100% historically correct but the impression of 1930´s – 40´s gangsters, molls and Heavies is well represented.
The cars are Dinky / Matchbox and from my own collection aquired from fleamarkets / bootsales. Some of them are re-painted along the lines of the Henry Ford´s saying “You can have it any color you like, as long as it’s black.”
Dragon makes an entire range of these half-tracked vehicles, at a very good quality. I picked it up mine for a half-track work group on Braille Scale Monthly Competition. The Pak 35/36 that comes in the box was a good addition to the vehicle.
In the box there some photo etched parts; most modellers will welcome these, but frankly I don’t understand why the lower sides of the hull are made from PE. And this is not an option, you are forced to use them. I would have been ten times happier if the gun shield of the Pak was made from PE, or even some other details. Anyway, the construction is pretty much straightforward.
First, I painted the interior:
After that I hand brushed a few layers of Vallejo’s Panzer Gray, I applied the striped camouflage as seen on the Russian front. I used Dark Sand, also from Vallejo.
A coat of gloss varnish was sprayed, as protection for the base coat. And I replaced the width indicators with ones made from thin wire.
If I remember well, this was my first time when I used oil colours for weathering. These are the final photos:
In conclusion, this is a lovely kit, and anyone who’d like to build some 1/72 Sd.Kfz. 251 half-tracks should check Dragon’s offer, as there are plenty of options.
Work has been still mad, but now my boss has decided to give me a rest and banned working weekends so the I can now pick up the brushes again.
I was looking in the local model shop at the Italeri and Zvezda 88’s and on price the Zvezda won hands down. At nearly half the price and twice as many parts I would have been mad not to try one. The crew is not as good as the Italeri’s set and not nearly as many either.
The FLAK 36/37 must have been a can opener it is massive. I had no idea the size of it until I put it next to some figures. Who ever thought of using this as an anti tank gun was an evil genesis. At 16,200 yards the range and punch of this beast must have been terrifying for any allied tanker.
Back to the kit, it consists of 45 parts including 4 crew, not quite enough to serve it but a start. It requires no glue, or so it say’s but in certain parts like the gun mantel it would be recommended. All the parts fitted well and it only took about half and hour to build from start to finish. I really enjoyed this build due to the hangover that I was suffering from not having to work this weekend. I was glad of the option of not having to build it on the base, you have the choice of using the separate plates.
The crew will be built at a later date because I am looking at which dio base to build. I am leaning to using it in an anti aircraft roll. With it’s barrel poking menacingly into the air I think it looks more dramatic. To be fair I would look at buying a second one for the anti tank role in the north Africa desert, but the crew of the Italeri might just swing it for that. I might have to look at getting some of the SHQ spare ammo case’s and shells to have lying around the dio, I do not know why manufactures do not put more of these in kit is beyond me!!! If HaT can do it than so can the other’s. There new crew sets have several bits and bobs to have knocking around the gun pit. So come on then Zvezda and the like take note!
If you are ‘shermanholic’ in Braille scale and you want to build a plastic kit, Dragon is the best option, no doubt about that. They have an entire plethora of kits, covering all major variants of this legendary allied tank. There are some minor problems, especially with the boogies in the first released batches. Another subject for debate are the tools moulded on the hull surface. Personally I don’t dislike them so much.
Doug Chaltry runs a great website dedicated to 1/72 Sherman; if you want to buy a kit, or just to read a comprehensive review, you should check it out.
This was my second build Sherman and one of my favourite projects so far. When I build a model, I like to represent, if possible, a real vehicle. This was my inspiration for the Sherman:
I started with the bogies, and added a few details:
Then I moved up to the hull. Since Dragon doesn’t provide the periscope brush guards in this kit, I had to make them from scratch. I also added the grab handles on the hatches. Dragon does provide some etched brass parts, like the brush guards for the lights and the lovely rear luggage rack.
The turret was next in line, with some extra-details also:
After that the final fitting and my Sherman was ready for the paint job.
I hand brushed a few layers of Vallejo paints; a mix of US dark green and Olive drab.
The striped winter camouflage was followed by pigments and washes, and thus I ended my project.
In conclusion, this is a great kit, an excellent build just out of the box, but also a very good platform for those who like extra-detailing.
I would like to apologize for not posting much work lately due to a massive amount of work and home life commitments, the real world rears it ugly head again!
Any way back to business. I really love Italian armour and especially Italeri Italian armour. I don’t know why but I just do. I wanted to try out a new product I came across on another modelling forum. It is a liquid filler that can be applied with a brush to get into those hard to reach places. It is called “Mr surfacer 1200”, there is several grades “500” as well as “1000”. I think with a bit of practice I can see really working for me.
The build was nice and easy for a change, a few problem’s with the smaller items like towing hooks and petrol caps that got eaten by the carpet monster. I wish manufactures would include more stowage on kits, this one to be fair did have several Jerry cans and separate pioneer tools which always add a bit of realism to a model rather than moulded ones.
The tires are a bit of a let down due to the fact that they have no tread what so ever, bald as a coot. There are resin ones on the market but I believe the other Italeri kit has tires with treads. It is a minor moan because the tires and hubs are separate with means it is easier to paint .
Once assembled the next stage was the decals. It came with three options and I had to go for the colourful police version. They went on very well as is normal I find with Italeri decals. A little help with micro-sol was needed to give a really good painted on look. A tip I found was leave off the front towing eye and petrol caps till after the decals are on.
The weathering was a heavy wash of pro modeller dirt wash, left to dry and then lightly washed off with a cotton bud. There is dirty and then there is driven into a pig sty! A pencil was used on the edges to give an illusion of scraped metal and general ware and tear. Then the whole model was brushed over with Tamiya weathering powder for that sandy look.
I am really chuffed with this build and I looking forward to getting my hands on the railroad version of this kit.
The model is available through our Ebay utility here.
This set contains a monster of a siege gun…what in real life would be a 600mm cannon or Bombard. The kit consists of a 7 man crew and comes with a hillock cast out of hard plastic onto which the gun can be placed and behind it the wooden buttresses that would have absorbed the Bombards massive recoil. There are some accessories, a hinged wooden shield, some wicker fencing and wooden panels which are intended to be added in front off and to either side of the Bombard to form a protective screen for the crew. Also included are two barrels, two sacks, two buckets, 3 cannon (Bombard) balls, a big wooden hammer and a ramrod.
The crew are not really a crew interacting with the gun as such..they appear to be getting on with moving things about in the main except one who is holding the ram and the ” gunner” who is giving out orders, but they fit well with their “monster” cannon.
The only complaint I can come up with is the defensive fence pieces. The moveable shield is fine but it is when the others are attached to the mound. The wooden mantelets seem to “perch” on the mound and the wicker fences reach out into nothing, leaving a huge space underneath.
To overcome this, I glued the mound onto a slightly bigger base and built the side around it up with layers of sand and wood-glue mix until there was enough area to place the fences with a realistic amount of space and not have them hanging in space.
234 series was an improvement over the long time used Sd.Kfz 232 series. It mounted a new turret, with a 5 cm KwK 39/1 L/60 gun, similar to the one mounted in the late versions of the Pz.III.
It was manufactured since 1943 till the second half of 1944, even it is know as one of the best reconnaissance vehicles in the World War II. Although it was 12 tons weighted vehicle still was capable to achieve 85 Km/h in road.
As all the family it could be driven in both directions.
One of the visual characteristic of the 234 series is the one piece mudguard, instead the two-piece mudguards on the 232 series. There was three other versions in the 234 series which was produced till the end of the war, the /1 (2 cm KwK 38 L/55 gun and coaxial 7.92 mm Maschinengewehr 34 or MG 42 machine gun, open turret covered with a frame), /3 (short 7.5 cm KwK 37 L/24 in an open turret) and /4 (a 7.5 cm PaK 40 L/46 also in an open turret).
A nice Altaya’s model showing a classic late war camouflage pattern in one of the most famous reconnaissance vehicles from the war.
If someone would ask me ‘what will be the perfect small scale kit to start this hobby?’, I would definitely say Revell FAMO. This is one of the most accurate and highly detailed kit in 1/72. For those who like super-detailing, the lack of an engine could be its only “fault”, but this part can be borrowed from a Trumpeter FAMO (also a great kit).
It could easily be built out of the box, but I wanted to make mine with a tarp over the cargo area. So I added the sustaining frame, made from aluminium wire.
After that, I applied the base paint, German grey from Vallejo, and then I glued the link & length tracks over the road wheels; it fits perfectly. Another detail for a better appearance were the cabin side grip handles. Those were cut off and replaced with thin brass rod.
The tarpaulin was made from ordinary tissue soaked in a mixture from white glue and water.
At the end I put some “dust” on, with the help of pigments and oil colours. Because the original width indicators were too thick for my taste, I replaced them with new ones made from brass rod. I loaded the cargo with some accessories, and this is it:
In conclusion, this is a superb kit from Revell, highly detailed and easy to build.
This set and other from Revell are available through our utility here.
No longer released by Airfix, but by HaT, this has to be one of the most useful 1/72nd sets of medieval figures going.
It can be used to create not only Robins merry men but a revolting peasant army, generic levy troops, men operating siege equipment or just peasants standing about to fill, say a jousting scene.
The original plastic used by Airfix was a bit harder than that used by HaT. Although I have none in my collection (the figures pictured are all original Airfix products) I have seen the new HaT reproduction figures and the plastic used seems to leave a lot more flash than their 30 plus year old counterparts. This could also be down to the mould being old, but the softer plastic figures are certainly better than none, and as the original Airfix ones age, they can suffer from “plastic rot”..the plastic becoming brittle.
The original set still is easy to found, take a look here. Hät’s new one is less abundant, but still available.
Here is an older work of mine from 2010. I have always had a soft spot for small pre war light tanks , so when I bought an old JB models kit at a model show I was surprised by how simple it was to build. It only has 40 or so parts for three different variants “a” ,”b” and “c”. The tracks come as a complete unit and you could knock one this kit in an hour if pushed.
I wanted to try and modify this kit a bit so I tried to open the drivers hatch and commander’s hatch. Trying to find pictures on the net was a nightmare. I am lucky enough to live just down the road from Bovington tank museum were they have a Vickers on show! It was there I got the idea to do the pendants on the aerials. Tin foil was folded in half and glued around the wire and the cut into a triangle. The foil allowed the flag to shaped quite nicely and stay in “fluttering”. A few bits of stowage was add from a set from SGTS MESS.
The figures are from Wee friends, and I have been told that they did not wear khaki cover all’s but a black set. It make’s sense from the point of view of oil and stains but from a painting angle the khaki win’s. The poses are brilliant, the bloke laying down asleep is a first for me. I liked the idea of a peacefull diorama rather than a full on battle, and soldiers having a “brew” does bring back memories of being on exercise.
The men in shirt sleeves fixing the the tracks work well together in a dio and could be used on there own.The shirt colour is a bit of a matter of choice like the cover all’s. I want to try out some GW washes and all I could think of was a light blue/grey colour.
The base was one of my first larger efforts. Before that I used to only use GW black bases for single figure so this was a step up for me. The base is an old photo frame covered in PVA glue and sand with a wall from Jarvis scenery. I have been told that if the wall put at an angle it would have looked better and to be fair they have a point. The grass is from Silfor tufts and the trees are from woodland scenic.
The Airfix (Ex-JB) model still is available through Ebay here. Also you can found interesting the UMMT and Mirage range for this kind of vehicles. Take a look here.
Because it is such an iconic vehicle, the backbone of the German army in WWII, I guess every serious tank modeller made at least one Pz. IV tank. When I decided to make mine in 1/72 scale, Revell was the first option. But their famous Pz IV range was no longer in production, and I couldn’t find an available kit. So I’ve turned to Dragon, and I didn’t regret it for a second.
I always loved the DAK vehicles, and this was my first attempt to represent one. I started with the construction and a small base with some ancient ruins.
The columns are scratched; In my work, I was inspired by a Panzer III diorama, in a larger scale, which I’ve spotted on a modelling website.
I painted the entire model by brush with Vallejo tan yellow. At the same time, I placed on the base some pebbles and small stones for the desert environment.
I finished the model only with acrylics. At that time I was a beginner, and lacked the experience with more advanced modelling techniques such as oil paint weathering.
Later, when I’ve learned how to use oil paints and pigments, I returned to this lovely tank, and made a few changes. And some decent photos too:
In conclusion, this an extraordinary kit, which builds perfectly out of the box, and for someone who wants to make an accurate Pz IV F1, is the best option. Good work, Dragon!
You can find this and other Dragon models through our utility here.
These are among my favourite 1/72nd medieval sets. The sculpting is top class The range of figures and the extras included in the set portray a day out at the joust without any additions from other sets.
The standing figures.
I really can´t find anything to fault with them. The multi part knights fit together exceptionally well with no trace of any joins. The embossed designs are finely done as are the folds in the clothes and the armour.
The mounted Knights.
The one thing that I noticed as I was painting them…..the lances can only be attached so that they end up facing outwards to the right. This is of course wrong as they should point to the left across the horses neck, on the shield side of the knight and across the dividing wall towards the opponent.
This can be altered by cutting the knight away from his seat and turning the body but as I noticed it, it was too late.
Still, they are lovely sculpts with some great details.
With the medieval Tournament set you get a set of 3 wooden walls to separate the knights when they are jousting and a observers stand.
The Medieval Challenge set comes with a ruined church, a set of fences, a Quintain, some standards and water-slide transfers. I only used the Ruin and the fences.
I would like to start by wishing everyone a happy new year and then say thanks for being invited to post on this great blog with people who can paint a hell of a lot better than me! I just hope my stuff is up to standard, I can get away with my shoddy work on my own blog.
I do not normally buy the Zvezda art of tactics infantry sets out of principle. Paying for only four plastic soldiers nearly the same price for a full set is a bit of a con (however good they are). The gun sets are great value for money and have a few gem’s there.I had to make an exception with this set though because I have a soft spot for unusual sets and these fit the bill. I know Pegasus have done a set of Soviet naval infantry but not in what appears to be summer dress.
The figures are up to the normal Zvezda high quality by using multi part figures to give a good three dimensional look to them. The poses are great especially the bloke kneeing down throwing the grenade, a great touch I think.There is a good level of detail on the figures like the ammo belts, I decided not to try and paint every round on every belt because I would still be there now!
The only down sides to these lads are the fact that they do not have the scarf thingy (forgive me but I was in the army not the navy) like the Pegasus set have.This could be sorted out with a bit of “green stuff” but I am not too sure if it would have been worn in combat, if anyone knows different please, please let us know.
The other problem was the fit of the parts. It say’s on the box “snap fit” but I found it very difficult to get them to fit, so out came a knife and super glue and surprise surprise they fitted! I am sure someone who knows what they are doing will get them to fit better than me but it worked.
I will look at getting the Soviet sappers and recon team just because they are something different and I have a plan in mind for them in a small diorama so watch this blog. All in all a good investment that will be put to good use in the future.
As always remember you can find this beautiful set at best prices through our Ebay utility searcher, here.
My current project is a King Tiger from SS-Pz.Abt.503, who fought in Berlin in the last days of the war. I picked up Revell’s Tiger II, as it is one of the best 1/72 kits out there.
I thought to make a little vignette also, and when I came across this set from Italeri, I knew it will save me a lot of time.
In the box there are two sprue of brown-yellow plastic, with many useful stuff: different type of building walls, bricks and sacks. For a little vignette like mine, I will use about half of it, so plenty will remain for future projects.
And this how it looks together with the tank and some figurines from Zvezda.
In conclusion, this is a lovely set, quite affordable and a real time saviour for those who don’t have the time or skills to scratch build walls and ruins. You can buy the set here.
Hard to believe that this set came out in 1972!!! The 14 man crew, 2 guns and limber, all go to make a gun in action and one being towed. The following figures are from my private collection and are painted in Acrylics by my own fair hands 😀
It is one of Airfix´s better sets..although for the serious Napoleonic collector there are a few errors.
The guns...Why did they add rivets to the wheels!!? Apart from that the guns are accurate representations of 6-pdrs (?), even down to having small ammo boxes attached to the axle to the left and right of the barrel. The barrel doesn´t clip or peg into position but it simply lays on the trunions. This means if it were to be used for wargaming, the barrel needs to be glued or pinned to the carriage.
The gun carriage ( Limber) ..It has the correct number of six horses but they are not connected to each other although the one rear horse is attached to the limber and addition of traces isn´t impossible (see photos of the based set)
The Crew…Apart from the guy with the two buckets who seems a pretty odd pose and is therefore getting entangled with his scabbard, the whole crew look busy and engaged with the job in hand. Uniforms, of both crew and riders is correct. One notable point. The officer is holding his telescope with BOTH hands, which is correct. Most other telescope using figs seem to believe they have pirate ancestry and hold it with one hand.
This was at the time and still is a lovely set…and still the best representation of the Napoleonic RHA in plastic. It is however hard to acquire these days but it is well worth hunting down.
The figures and equipment painted but not based
The pictures have made the blue look a bit too light blue…
Italeri Set 6068 German Elite Troops & Revell Set 02584 German Mechanized Infantrymen
This set was first issued by Italeri and then it also was issued by Revell.
Most poses looks quite correct, except the man firing the Panzerfaust and the mortar one. All seems to be equipped for winter time.
Wrong position to fire a Panzerfaust :).
Clearly, set is designed for late war years, showing several MP43/StG44 and high differences in equipment. Most of the soldiers don’t wear all the equipment and many of them have wrong position for the shale and canteen.
Overall set is quite well sculpted, maybe the worst figure is the mortar one, a bad base and just one server.
You must correct the angle of some MG0’s bipod, which have been rotated because mould problems, but it’s not a hard task.
·Coats: Base coat WWII German Field-grey (Vallejo), Devlan Mud (Citadel) washed and then highlight again with German Field-grey.
·Trousers: Basecoat German Grey (Vallejo), Devlan Mud washed, highlighted with Green Grey (Vallejo).
·Camouflage: Middle brown base coat, dark green dotted, the light olive green and latest dark yellow. You can wash it with Devlan Mud.
·Metal on weapons: Dry brush Oyl Steel (Vallejo) and Babab Black washed.
·Bazooka y Panzerfaust: Tausept Ocre (citadel) and Devlan Mud washed.
When I started this kit, many said it was the most correct Tiger tank in braille scale, with only one “fault”: a single decal option: Tiger no 100. But what an option! This legendary tank was captured by Russians and was exhibited in Gorky park in the summer of 1943.
I opted for the winter version of this famous tank, when I came across this image:
The distinguishing of Tiger 100 are:
1. Massive exhaust pipe extensions, rising up to 700mm above the top of the rear hull.
2. Unique side mounted turret baggage bin.
3. Horseshoe mounted on the left side hull front.
4. Bent front left track mudguard
5. Improvised rain shield over the gun-sight.
6. Unique camo pattern with a large dark area above the driver’s vision port.
7. Spare tracks on front hull.
I just had to bend the left track mudguard and improvise the rain shield over the gun-sight. The rest came with the kit.
After assembly, I sprayed two layers of Tamiya white primer, very useful for brush painting.
Then, the Panzer grey, from Vallejo Model Color range, applied in four layers with a brush.
Next in line was the specific camo of Tiger 100.
And finally, I placed the Tiger in little vignette; the snow is very easy to make: just a mix of water, white glue and baking soda. I will not call this project done, as I plan to return with some proper figurines.
In conclusion, if you want to build an accurate Initial Tiger tank, this might prove an excellent choice. Dragon even released a sequel based on this kit, with more decal options.
Buy the Tiger #100 set,
Or buy the sequel.
All I can say about this set from Strelets (comissioned by and exclusive to Linear-b) is that it is superb. The variety of poses, the sculpting and subject matter are excellent. There is very very little flash to deal with and the figures themselves are attached to the sprue mainly by their bases which means very little carefull knife work when detaching them.
This is a wonderfull set that can be used for street scenes, camp scenes or to add to the two roman transport set.
Did I mention street scenes???? Here´s a couple more 😀
I love the colonial age… don’t know why.
These guys are my first colonial paint work, so they would be considering as a test painting.
The first mistake, the red coats’ trouser, which are too blue. Although there are some variants for these guys none is so blue, you can choose a dark blue as the royal artillery, a very light blue or a sand colour, but not so blue as i did.
Second mistake is the use of red coats and sand uniforms, these guns were allways crewed by the royal artillery guys, which worn a dark blue, but a for a test painting i wants to try these colours too.
Probably there are some other mistakes, figures has cuffs but i didn’t paint them in all the teams, as i haven’t see pictures of the royal artillery with cuffs in other colour.
About the guns itself i also paint one green, which is not correct, seems that all was painted in some blue.
About the set, we only can say that you get 4 Gatling gun fully crewed by just some Euro, i reserved one gun for the ACW project, although i must remade the munitions barrel. All the set is Ok, gun parts fit quite well, and there are a lot of figures which can be useful for other sets/uses. The only odd for my taste is the figure who stands close to the wheels, his pose only allows this usage and sculpture is quite strange, too big shoulders. Maybe he is just a very strong man.
Sandy: Vallejo Iraqui Sand + “Quick Shade”.
Red Coats: Vallejo 70957 Flat Red + Unknown Citadel Blue (Sorry, i don’t remember which one i used) + “Quick Shade”.
Royal Artillery: Vallejo 70925 Intense Blue + Citadel Black Wash.
Used in all the figs, white, Citadel Snake Bit leather, Gold and silver colours.
The novelty for this work is that i used The Army Painter “Quick Shade” Medium tone for the Red Coats and Sandy ones, and i quite happy with this product. The only odd is that you must use matt varnish after use the “Quick Shade” as it is terribly brightness, but it shades quite well over a lot of colours, most for light or brightness colours, such sandy, red, light “all” and so. Is curious how it works with the varnish, brightness go off, but also they look less shadowed after varnish… i don’t know… i will try this product for next works, we will see, but by the moment i like it more than Vallejo or Citadel washes.
I must said i didn’t use the “dip” method, i brushed the product, and you must carefully clean the brush after it, as product is more like a varnish than a wash. The other question concerning this product is that it took an eternity to dry, if you use it in the afternoon you could forget the figures until the next day. Also, and i don’t know why, this products works quite bad if you try to highlight figures with dry bush after apply it, so it demands other way to work: Base colour – Highlight – Quick Shade, while i usually use Wash – Highlight.
I hope you like it.
Buy unbuild and unpainted this excellent set here.
Chariots were introduced by Aryans in the middle of 2nd BC century, and they were permanently used by the southern kingdoms while northern kingdoms were too mountain to use them. In this age Indian was a convulse territory with a lot of kingdoms fighting between them. Chariots were usually riding by noble men and was often used to charge against infantry formation to spread them as cavalry do. They also have an important physiologic component, see a two or four horse chariot charging against you… well…
Hät set comes with three teams of two horse chariots, they are well designed, better than the box illustration, which shows two lower lateral parts. You also get three men for each chariot, a driver, an archer and a noble men. They comes with a base, so can be useful for other things. Set also comes with some “estrange” extras, an elephant rider and an infantry man who can be used as crew instead of one of the above mentioned or you can reserve it for future uses as i did :). Set also comes with a beautiful umbrella which i used with the elephant set. As the mast is too soft i replaced it.
Maybe this figures looks to tick, but i like this style. Although the poses looks a bit strange in a first sigh they take a better appearance once they are put together in the chariot. Maybe you want to remove the base, but be careful with feet, cut this very soft plastic can achieve a disaster ! They fit tight even without bases so i prefer to don’t this.
Figures are quite well detailed and even if they are soft plastic the chariot parts fits very well, even without glue.
This time i used a different combination for the Indian skin, they are black primed and a layer of Khemri Brown. Washed with Devlan Mud and two lighting coats, one with Khemri Brown and second with a mix of Bleached bone and Khemri Brown.
For the horses i used Scorched Brown as base coat, washed with Devlam Mud, highlighted with Bestial Brown. Belts in red, straps also in red, they are made with slim wire (from loaf :)). Put them prior to painting, they need to drill, i recommend to drill a bit tick than the wire is.
Brown have been used for the chariot with some red, orange white and metal, not the best painting, but, it is for the battle field, not for a contest 😀
Although always there are different opinions about Hät quality or style this one is a quite well engineered set and easy to built. This one completes the Hät’s ancient Indian sets with infantry, cavalry, elephants and chariots, what more do you want ? ;).
Even the odds it is a cheap and quite nice option for gaming, yo get three full chariots with some extras.
You can buy this set here.
Even if this was submitted during 2011, and i was awarded with the contribution badge for that year, this one has been finally published in the 2012 contribution list.
Just for fun… any resemblance to reality is purely coincidental !!!!
First of all, i was inspired after see this work from a big brother of scale.
Also i was interested in show this new set in a original way… so… i took a look to my spare box.. and begin to ideate a monster…
It took to me 4 days to assemble all the parts, a lot of cut, sand, glue and green stuff (putty)…
There are a lot of parts which i don’t know where come from, but more noticeable ones such turret and tracks come from an Armourfast Achilles (Tracks are cut, a bit more than half), some other parts are from unknown models, such lower turret, body chassis (also cut, and was very difficult to join the two parts again) and many little details. Legs are also done with the Armourfast set, a lot of cut needed here…
Wires in the legs are from an old computer from the work…
Exhaust in the rear part are from a Tiger I i guess… but lateral ones are also unknown for me… (So many unknow parts are because some time ago i brought a huge lot of spare parts in Ebay)
The MGs in the turret are from a recent acquisition… a Dragon set with a lot of options an extra weapons…
The ammunition belt is one of my favourite parts, it’s done with links from a Tiger I and munitions from a Hasegawa 31102 M2 155mm Gun “Long Tom” set… (I need to buy new ones, as the Long Tom is already done… but need crew and munition 🙂 )
So this beast is armed with a 155mm gun… capable to fire at an extraordinary rate… although the reload operation took some time… 🙂
The lower turret (unknown) is armed with a 40mm (QF 2 pdr) gun from a Churchill tank, probably a 1/76 matchbox one, so it looks under 40mm… maybe we can say it is a 20mm gun. 😉
The cokes detail is made with a Milk box from the HO scale… hand painted.. but i avoid to put all the brand name… i don’t want to advertise nobody for nothing 😀 , so Coke men, if you like it i’m ready to get an sponsorship… :):)
About the figures, well, these are not the complete poses, still 4 more poses came in the set, including 2 tank crews…
These figures are a good idea… for my next project a will show how they fit perfectly other things that aren’t tanks… but detail… well… they aren’t the worst, but weapons, faces and feet are poorly detailed… anyway i like this set, and also the other riders set released by Hät, but all have the same problems. Even this, they are a better option than the usual hard plastic figures which comes with the models… the only i guess is some driver for trucks, Jeeps and so, which are not included in those sets. 🙁
About colour scheme this time a variate a bit my colours for the figures, but i like more y previous U.S infantry figures. This time i used Vallejo Brown Violet instead of green and Vallejo Khaki instead of Citadel Commando Khaki. The brown trousers are painted with Vallejo Olive Drab. All washed with Devlan Mud and highlighted with white mixes and a final touch of Vallejo Iraqi Sand.
The “tank” is painted as always, grey primed and the Tamiya Spray paint. To retouch it i used Vallejo Panzer Series Olive Green. Washed mainly with Citadel Devlan Mud and some pigments.
Today i meet the excellent Spanish sculptor Tomás Castaño, in the past he works with Andrea Miniatures, and today he owns his own company and site at http://www.cast48.com/ , but the most interesting for us is that he sculpted some beautiful 1/72 figures.
Late WWII German Infantry (5 poses)
At some time these one were released by Almogavers Figures.
Spanish Line Infantry – Spanish Peninsular War (Spanish Independence War) (21 Poses)
This figures were released time ago under Falcata Miniaturas brand.
The Albatross has to be my favourite WWI plane, in all it´s variants. The shape, the ease of build and the ease of rigging make it a great beginners plane.
The Revell Kit version may not be the most historically accurate version but it has got to be the easiest to build among all the various Albatross kits on offer. This, IMHO is a massive plus factor..who wants to get tangled in a virtually impossible build, the result of which may turn out not to meet expectations and at the cost of buying an highly accurate kit but spending frustrating hours but ending up with something not far removed from the “not so accurate” version that pleasingly took a fraction of the time?
Anyway…no long build description..the instructions with the kit are self explanatory and even a short search of the web will give plenty of decoration ideas.
I must confess I have a soft spot for winter camouflages. I had this kit in my stash for quite a while and I decided to give it a try. It is a little gem, all parts fits very well and you don’t need too much aftermarkets to build a perfect Braille Stug; it is literally a scaled down 1/35 kit.
I started with suspensions, road-wheels and the rear panel. I replaced the exhaust deflector sides with others made from a beer can. Unlike Revell, Dragon provides the PE mesh screens for air intakes and that’s a good bonus.
But not all things are perfect with this kit and, inexplicably, Dragon decided to shut down the driver’s vizor. This is not a major fault, but it’s some how odd to drive a tank with this vizor closed. It was not an easy task to open it, but in the end all the effort paid off.
I continued with the superstructure and added a few details, such as some spare tracks from a Revell kit. As for the commander cupola, the trap is a little too thick if left open but it can be replaced with one from Extratech.
After that, my model was ready for paint:
Until recently, all my models were brush painted, so I was unable to try the hairspray technique, which is impossible without an airbrush. My Stug received a a good coat of white as “base paint”, and then I dry-brushed the dunkelgelb over the white. I was quite happy with the result:
After decals, fitting the tracks and some weathering with oils and pigments, the Stug really came to life.
In conclusion, this is a highly detailed kit, very easy to put together; a “must build” for every Braille lover.
This is a pretty nice little plane to build. The actual body, wings etc fit together quite well, apart from the actual cockpit, which needs care when glueing the two halves to ensure a proper fit. Also, the Lewis gun isn’t the best representation of this weapon going..but it looks the part.
To enable “easy” rigging..I drill holes where the wires will later go, using a 0.5mm drill. I then paint all the large parts and when the paint is dry I use the tip of a pin to free any paint that has got into the holes during painting.
In the above picture you can see i am using office paper clips to hold the wing-struts to the wings. This saves having to have 4 hands 😀
To rig I use “invisible” Nylon mending thread and push it (like weaving from one hole to another) using fine point tweezers. As the thread is very thin and quite difficult to see, I advise using a marker pen to colour the end that is being pushed through the holes.
Basic method. Work out a route for the bit of rigging you want to do. It´s best to work from inner cables to outer ones. The actual route depends on how competent you feel with rigging, and I suggest rigging through a maximum of 8 holes at any one time. Take a length of thread..much longer than the route to be taken. Attach one end of the thread to a wing surface, a part of the fuselage etc with a small piece of tape, then insert the free end of the thread into the first hole..and off you go 😀
When threaded through the last hole of the chosen route, cut off the access, leaving enough to be able to pull it tight and stick down using a bit of tape. Glue (an epoxy glue like Pattex) all the holes where the thread is..let dry overnight and using a razor, cut off . Some holes may need a bit of filling (PVA wood glue works fine for this) and filling flush.
One 75mm SA-50 gun.
105 Km/h on road, 65 Km/h off road.
3 7,5mm MG.
The Panhard was the first French reconnaissance vehicle post world war II, with a characteristic 8 rad train and a 75mm gun in a FL-11 turret.
Two central wheels were totally metallic, and commonly were elevated, used only in sandy or mud terrains.
Initial version were equipped with a FL-10 turret and a SA-49 75mm gun, but upon 1954 it was upgraded to the FL-11 turret, the same used by the AMX-13 light tank.
Lately, in 1963, a new gun was installed in the FL-11 turret, a F2 90mm gun.
As the German world war two reconnaissance vehicles they was equipped with two drivers positions, so it was capable to change direction at any moment.
Around 1200 units were manufactured, sawing service in Alger or Angola, used by Portuguese troops, which acquired 50 units.
Some different versions were manufactured for personal transport or even an AA prototype, armed with 2 30mm guns.
The Panhard series were replaced upon 1977, by the new AMX-10 RC vehicle.
Overall aspect of the model is quite correct, a best looking one in the collection, although as always with the simplified and basic detail provided by Altaya.
40 Km/h on road 25 Km/h off road.
1 FH18M 105mm
1 MG 34 7,92mm
Based on the Pz.II Ausf.F chassis, this self propelled artillery vehicle was manufactured since February 1943 to Summer 1944, around 682 units were manufactured and they saw service until the end of the war.
It was capable to transport 32 shells with an effective range of 8.400m.
In March 1945 still were 307 units in service. First units saw service during the Kursk battle, in the 1943 summer.
One of the problems of this vehicle was the open turret, which was always a problem for the crew. Also the limited space available to load and aim the gun.
Although this model could belong to the Panzer collection it is from the newest Armour collection ones.
As always Altaya’s quality is not the best available in Diecast world, but anyway it’s a nice model, showing an interesting camouflage pattern. Interior detail is quite basic and simplified, also the gun itself is not the best part, all made in plastic.
A bit misunderstanding between the base plate and the issue, while base talk about a vehicle for Karkhov 1943 (After Stalingrad disaster) the issue talk about Kursk 43, where the Wiking was deployed as reserve.
I added some Welding Lines and some simple Rivets but i don´t want to place all the missing Lines etc. Just the few on the static Turret.
The inside of this Model is modified too, but this will be visible when the Model is finished. I had to cut out some parts to give more space for the 3 Crewmen.
The Crewmen are from SHQ and the additional Stowage is made of Resin.
One of my favourite German Tank hunters in 1/72 scale. The Italeri kit is an re-issue of the old Esci Kit. Added 3 Figures from the SHQ Range (“Bison Crew” (M1943) and some Stowage. Paints and Pigments are from Vallejo.
First i primed the whole Model with Vallejo Model Color (70995) “German Dark Grey”, after that, i applied an wash with an 50/50 Mix of Citadels “Devlan Mud” and “Badab Black”. After the wash was dried i dry brushed the whole Model. Again i used ” German Dark Grey” for the first drybrush and Vallejo Model Color (70836) “London Grey” for the Raised Areas, Edges and Highlights.
The Tracks only were primed with Grey and after that i gave them a coat of several Vallejo Pigments.
A couple of months ago I attended a local 1/72 group build, and I thought maybe I should give it a try with something fun and easy to build. So I picked up this kit from Roden; it is cheap, fairly good engineered and very fun to build. Roden provides only the early version of the truck (Academy, for example offers both steel cab and late wooden cab). However, I’ve learned Roden’s version is slightly better than Academy and much better than Italeri or Airfix. Decal options cover no less than six different units. I opted for the DAK version, but in the end I regretted as the decals were no good.
A nice feature of this kit is the engine, very little and very well detailed. Only minor upgrading was necessary.
I continued with the chassis. That was the moment when I noticed the Roden plastic was more softer than I was used to and some how crumbly. Some extra care was necessary but nothing too difficult. The back tires have some sink marks that needed to be filled with some ordinary putty.
The cabin was placed on the chassis and then the cargo-bay. I added the door handles and replaced the plastic width indicators with wires. Headlights were holed. I lifted one side of the hood so at least some of the engine could be visible.
A somehow major fault of this kit are the front wheels. Simply because they are for the 4×4 version. Since the kit doesn’t provide the 4×2 front wheels, I was forced to do some hub reworking. You can see the corrections bellow:
After that, there was not much left to do for the construction. I continued with a few layers of tan yellow from Vallejo Model Color, applied with a brush. The weathering was done by dry-brushing the exposed areas with German grey and some brown colour, then pigments and oils applied at the end, followed by a good coat of flat varnish. The barrels are not from the kit.
In conclusion, this is one of the best Opel Blitz in braille scale, and, with a little effort it will turn out into a beautiful version of this iconic truck.