Category Archives: Wargames

28mm – Warlord Games – Conversions (French Musketeers King’s Guard).

28mm Warlord Games French Musketeers King’s Guard.

Painted 28mm French Musketeers.

Warlord Games figures are easy to put together and easy to paint, they have and excellent plastic and metal range covering English Civil War and/or Thirty Years Wars. One of the odds is than you get the same plastic sprue in many different boxes, together with different metal accessories and/or special metal figures plus different flags and history fragments. That isn’t of our total approval, but any way they are excellent figures.

After paint a whole box of Imperial Infantry we needed to make something different with these figures, maybe isn’t a very accurate depiction, surely more cinematographic, but it has been a nice exercise for convert these figures in something different.

To make the well know French Musketeers King’s Guard cape we have used standard tissue paper, after several tries we use the best looking one as template to make the rest, it haves 4 parts, chest, back and the two arms.

The cross in the cape have a more intricate design than the one showed here, but we opted for this basic pattern to simplify the paint work.

More complicated was the conversion of the boots, the Warlord Games figures didn’t came with mount boots, so some green stuff was used to create the boots and the spurs (made from metal bits).

If you want to buy these figures unpainted as new, take a look at our utility to find them on Ebay. Note than several boxes come with these figures, we have linked only the Imperial Infantry box.

Step by Step – How to Make Medieval Pavise (1/72nd scale)

They are available in Sets like Miniart’s French Foot Soldiers with Rams or Zvezda’s French Infantry of the Hundred Years War..but they come unpainted, there´s too few of them, and I’m too lazy to spend hours straining my eyes to paint them ( they wouldn’t turn out well anyway ).

So..I came up with this;

1. First up..tools etc. wood-glue (not in pic) Scissors, sharp-blade, cocktail stick, Thin cardboard, wood-grain and shield pattern printouts. The wood-grain and shield patterns I got of the web..and re-sized…there are tons of them about but look out for copyright.

2. Slice the cocktail-stick in half (lengthways) and place on the glue smeared cardboard surface. It´s best to leave a bit of the cocktail-stick sticking out as you´ll see later.

3. Cut the shield pattern out leaving a decent edge all around and place as near as possible with the center of the shield over the cocktail-stick, which will form the central rib. You have to make sure that about half a cm at the top of the shield is stuck just to the cardboard. The little bit of the cocktail stick that is poking out the bottom can be used to align or push/pull the rib into position. Using your finger nails, push the paper pattern firmly onto the rib and the backing. Turn the whole thing over and apply the wood-grain pattern , making sure that the grain is properly aligned. You can check this by holding the shield up to the light.

4. Let everything dry and cut out. I´ve found, that to remove the sticking out bit of cocktail stick it´s best to use a sharp blade. The shield now looks like this;

5. With the edge of the nib from a marker ( I forgot to put it in the top pic!!! 😀 ) colour in the edges. I´ve used brown, but red would look nice as well 😀 (I certainly won´t get any work as a “Hand model” :-D)

6. Lay the shield along the marker pen and with your thumb press down. This gives the shield it´s final curved shape.

7. A stand can be made using a paper staple. Simply make a hole up behind the paper on the back of the Pavise, insert the staple (with a bit of PVA) glue) let it dry, bend it to the angle required and cut to length.

I hope this little how to is useful and obviously this can be used for making 28mm Pavise and probably would allow a lot more detail.

Coates & Shine Set 8154 Indian Infantry IV BC

As many other ancient armies, Ancient Indian ones was mostly composed by infantry men. Forgotten by history, these men taken from the lower social caste, fight against Alexander the Great, but also joint him after Poros defeat, in Hidaspes battle.

Most of the Indian infantry was formed by archers and spear-men, well represented in the set. They used bamboo bows almost so tall as they was. Arrows were carried in large baskets in their back.

Some figures wear leather protection on chest, identifying them as heavy infantry. Armour was very uncommon in those armies, not so much as the set represent.

Second Row second figure is a “wild tribesmen auxiliary”. They usually works as archers without sword and he is the only depicted in the set.

Figure wearing feathers is mountain-men. The only difference is the absence of sword, and also is the only figure depicting these men.

The most interesting figure here is the Female Guard member. After Chandragupta Maurya king these guards was very common. Although is not sure is they fought in the battle field, is a nice detail on the set.

Clothes and weapons are well depicted here, although some variations could occur varying geographical zones and periods, figures are enough generic to cover quite well the subject.
Sculpture quality looks like all the Ancient India range by Coates & Shine. They are some flat figures, but flash is non-existent.

About the paint you can take a look to our other worked Indian sets, such Chariots and War Elephants..

You can find this set taking a look at our utility here..

How to paint 28mm Roman Imperial Legionaries – Step by Step

A brief tutorial about how to paint 28mm Warlord Games Roman Imperial Legionaries.

Once it is black primed, our first step is to paint silver armour parts.
1- First a base coat of Citadel Boltgum Metal (Games Workshop).
2- Wash it with Babab Black
3- Once dried, highlight exposed areas with Boltgum Metal again.
4- To ends, apply a final highlight with Mithril Silver.

If you use other paint brands, as you can see, steps uses once darker silver colours, black wash and a lighter silver color. Even if you only have one silver colour, try to mix it with black, to darkener it.

Secondly it’s time to gold areas.
1- Base coat with Tin Bitz
2- Apply a layer of Burnishing Gold over the base coat, without cover it entirely.
3- Wash with Sepia or Devlan mud.
4- Restore some parts with Burnishing Gold and a final highlight with Shining Gold.
For generic paints, steps are based in an oxide colour and two gold tones, with a brown/sepia wash.

Red parts:
1- Base coat with Mechrite Red.
2- Devlan Mud wash.
3- A mix of Mechrite red and Blood Red without cover all the base coat.
4- A final highlight adding Vomit brown to the Mechrite red and Blood Red mix.
For generic colours technique is based in a medium red, brown wash, and brilliant red and yellow brown or ochre. Another alternative for the final step is to apply a diluted layer of orange in the prominent areas. Don’t forget than red+white = pink, not a good way to highlight red capes. 🙂


Brown tones:
1- Base colour is a dark brown, such Citadel Scorched Brown
2-Higlight belts with Bestial brown, pilum with a mix of scorched and a lighter brown 75%/25%, and Sandals with Khemri Brown.
3- Wash with Devlan Mud.
4- highlight each area with their step 2 colour, and for the Sandals use dry brush with a mix of Khemri Brown and Bleached Bone (Bone White)


Flesh:
1- Base colour with a mix of Tallarn Flesh and a bit of red.
2- Wash with Ogryn Flesh.
3- Highlight with Tallarn Flesh+Red
4- A final highlight with Tallarn Flesh.
5- To shadow eyes use a it of black or dark brown.

(Easy )Basing:
1- Pumice stone paste, be careful with the figure.
2- Wash with Devlan Mud or a very diluted brown tone.
3- Add static grass or tufts in some areas.


Shields:
1- Black primed.
2- golden edges and Silver center.
3- Cut the transfer a bit smaller than the marks, they are some big, with the centre hole happens the opposite, it’s a bit small.
You can follow this video tutorial:
How to aply Transfers.

5- If some black primed area is at sight cover it with dark brown or red.
6- Wash with Devlan Mud.
7- Matt Varnish.


 

Step by Step picture.

Final result:

If you want to try with some Romans you can buy those here.

Warlord Games – Roman War Machines

The Roman Scorpion. Crewed by two men this war machine was capable to fire a heavy arrow against troop formations or fortifications. Each centuria of each legion owned one scorpion, so around 60 scorpions were in a legion. The metal model from warlord includes two legionaries, the scorpion itself and a bunch of arrows.

Once the Greek States were conquered by the Romans in the 146-BC, the Greek war machines, more advanced, found their place in the Roman army. The most famous and used probably was the Ballista (a catapult) capable of fire stones against walls or formations.
After rework the Greek design the Ballista become to a very precise weapon, with a psychological and physic effect against enemies. The Warlord set comes with a metal Ballista, three legionaries and a stone pile.

About the set, it is very well details, although some problems were found to built up the ballista, the torsion springs are too shot and don’t fit properly their place, so some liquid putty (Citadel) was used to fill the gaps.

Ballista even had the wooden pattern in some parts and overall all the detail is good and the set is a pleasure to paint. The bases was primed all together, keeping the crew in position with “blu-tack” over temporal square bases to paint them separately.

Once painted is time to work the base, without the figures to work it comfortable.

 

The base is worked with Vandall (like Vallejo Pumice Stone) plus some natural stones. Devlan Mud was applied directly over the pumice stone and natural stones was worked with grey colours and dry-brush technique, applying light grey each time. After this some grass and turf were applied.

To built the turf (or moss) i used static grass, matt varnish and white glue. The string in the Ballista is made with a thick thread.

 

To paint the machines itself i used a mix of Bestial Brown and Fortress Grey (Both Citadel colours) and then Devlan Mud eash was applied. Highlight with dry brush of Fortress Grey (very dry). Metal parts are painted with Bolt Gun Metal, Devlan Mud and Bolt Gun Metal dry brushed again.
The roman legionaries are painted as in previous posts here.

A beautiful high quality set. You can find it through our utility here.

Warlord Games – Roman Testudo

Warlord Games – Roman Testudo

It’s time to present the Roman Testudo, probably the most well know formation in history. Warlord Games manufacture it a 6 resin parts set. One for the cover shields, with a head looking out of the testudo, front, rear and 2 sides parts. Sets also comes with a separate Centurion and some arrows, to use as the box cover depict.

Once it is finished it will look great in any army, but to achieve this there is a long way. I can’t lie, at least my set, as you can see in the pictures, was damaged and mould quality wasn’t the best. The main problem a big bubble in the resin, damaging feet, plus other minor bubbles ans some resin burr.

It was purchased in UK in order to avoid the long process to claim for a new one y go ahead, reworking the damaged areas with putty.

 

Some areas are difficult to access to clean the mould lines, but it’s not important in all the interior side. Some other were hidden with the flock and grass in the base :). Total result is so impressive which probably nobody will notice this.

 

Set also comes with a transfer sheet for the shields, with some redundant decals, but probably you will broke some one during process…


There is no clear way to fix the cover shields with the other parts so i used some metal paper clips to do it.

About the painting you can work only the visible side of the parts, letting a basic coat for the interior side, as it will not be visible at all once finished, unless you prefer to let the cover shields unglued to show the interior…

Even if i get pissed off in some steps, final result is so good than i thinking in buy some more. 🙂

If you still haven’t this interesting set, take a look here.