When I started this kit, many said it was the most correct Tiger tank in braille scale, with only one “fault”: a single decal option: Tiger no 100. But what an option! This legendary tank was captured by Russians and was exhibited in Gorky park in the summer of 1943.
I opted for the winter version of this famous tank, when I came across this image:
The distinguishing of Tiger 100 are:
1. Massive exhaust pipe extensions, rising up to 700mm above the top of the rear hull.
2. Unique side mounted turret baggage bin.
3. Horseshoe mounted on the left side hull front.
4. Bent front left track mudguard
5. Improvised rain shield over the gun-sight.
6. Unique camo pattern with a large dark area above the driver’s vision port.
7. Spare tracks on front hull.
I just had to bend the left track mudguard and improvise the rain shield over the gun-sight. The rest came with the kit.
After assembly, I sprayed two layers of Tamiya white primer, very useful for brush painting.
Then, the Panzer grey, from Vallejo Model Color range, applied in four layers with a brush.
Next in line was the specific camo of Tiger 100.
And finally, I placed the Tiger in little vignette; the snow is very easy to make: just a mix of water, white glue and baking soda. I will not call this project done, as I plan to return with some proper figurines.
In conclusion, if you want to build an accurate Initial Tiger tank, this might prove an excellent choice. Dragon even released a sequel based on this kit, with more decal options.
Buy the Tiger #100 set,
Or buy the sequel.
All I can say about this set from Strelets (comissioned by and exclusive to Linear-b) is that it is superb. The variety of poses, the sculpting and subject matter are excellent. There is very very little flash to deal with and the figures themselves are attached to the sprue mainly by their bases which means very little carefull knife work when detaching them.
This is a wonderfull set that can be used for street scenes, camp scenes or to add to the two roman transport set.
Did I mention street scenes???? Here´s a couple more 😀
I love the colonial age… don’t know why.
These guys are my first colonial paint work, so they would be considering as a test painting.
The first mistake, the red coats’ trouser, which are too blue. Although there are some variants for these guys none is so blue, you can choose a dark blue as the royal artillery, a very light blue or a sand colour, but not so blue as i did.
Second mistake is the use of red coats and sand uniforms, these guns were allways crewed by the royal artillery guys, which worn a dark blue, but a for a test painting i wants to try these colours too.
Probably there are some other mistakes, figures has cuffs but i didn’t paint them in all the teams, as i haven’t see pictures of the royal artillery with cuffs in other colour.
About the guns itself i also paint one green, which is not correct, seems that all was painted in some blue.
About the set, we only can say that you get 4 Gatling gun fully crewed by just some Euro, i reserved one gun for the ACW project, although i must remade the munitions barrel. All the set is Ok, gun parts fit quite well, and there are a lot of figures which can be useful for other sets/uses. The only odd for my taste is the figure who stands close to the wheels, his pose only allows this usage and sculpture is quite strange, too big shoulders. Maybe he is just a very strong man.
Sandy: Vallejo Iraqui Sand + “Quick Shade”.
Red Coats: Vallejo 70957 Flat Red + Unknown Citadel Blue (Sorry, i don’t remember which one i used) + “Quick Shade”.
Royal Artillery: Vallejo 70925 Intense Blue + Citadel Black Wash.
Used in all the figs, white, Citadel Snake Bit leather, Gold and silver colours.
The novelty for this work is that i used The Army Painter “Quick Shade” Medium tone for the Red Coats and Sandy ones, and i quite happy with this product. The only odd is that you must use matt varnish after use the “Quick Shade” as it is terribly brightness, but it shades quite well over a lot of colours, most for light or brightness colours, such sandy, red, light “all” and so. Is curious how it works with the varnish, brightness go off, but also they look less shadowed after varnish… i don’t know… i will try this product for next works, we will see, but by the moment i like it more than Vallejo or Citadel washes.
I must said i didn’t use the “dip” method, i brushed the product, and you must carefully clean the brush after it, as product is more like a varnish than a wash. The other question concerning this product is that it took an eternity to dry, if you use it in the afternoon you could forget the figures until the next day. Also, and i don’t know why, this products works quite bad if you try to highlight figures with dry bush after apply it, so it demands other way to work: Base colour – Highlight – Quick Shade, while i usually use Wash – Highlight.
I hope you like it.
Buy unbuild and unpainted this excellent set here.
Chariots were introduced by Aryans in the middle of 2nd BC century, and they were permanently used by the southern kingdoms while northern kingdoms were too mountain to use them. In this age Indian was a convulse territory with a lot of kingdoms fighting between them. Chariots were usually riding by noble men and was often used to charge against infantry formation to spread them as cavalry do. They also have an important physiologic component, see a two or four horse chariot charging against you… well…
Hät set comes with three teams of two horse chariots, they are well designed, better than the box illustration, which shows two lower lateral parts. You also get three men for each chariot, a driver, an archer and a noble men. They comes with a base, so can be useful for other things. Set also comes with some “estrange” extras, an elephant rider and an infantry man who can be used as crew instead of one of the above mentioned or you can reserve it for future uses as i did :). Set also comes with a beautiful umbrella which i used with the elephant set. As the mast is too soft i replaced it.
Maybe this figures looks to tick, but i like this style. Although the poses looks a bit strange in a first sigh they take a better appearance once they are put together in the chariot. Maybe you want to remove the base, but be careful with feet, cut this very soft plastic can achieve a disaster ! They fit tight even without bases so i prefer to don’t this.
Figures are quite well detailed and even if they are soft plastic the chariot parts fits very well, even without glue.
This time i used a different combination for the Indian skin, they are black primed and a layer of Khemri Brown. Washed with Devlan Mud and two lighting coats, one with Khemri Brown and second with a mix of Bleached bone and Khemri Brown.
For the horses i used Scorched Brown as base coat, washed with Devlam Mud, highlighted with Bestial Brown. Belts in red, straps also in red, they are made with slim wire (from loaf :)). Put them prior to painting, they need to drill, i recommend to drill a bit tick than the wire is.
Brown have been used for the chariot with some red, orange white and metal, not the best painting, but, it is for the battle field, not for a contest 😀
Although always there are different opinions about Hät quality or style this one is a quite well engineered set and easy to built. This one completes the Hät’s ancient Indian sets with infantry, cavalry, elephants and chariots, what more do you want ? ;).
Even the odds it is a cheap and quite nice option for gaming, yo get three full chariots with some extras.
You can buy this set here.
Auxiliary troops fought like their counterparts, the Legion, despite what we think today, this troops were not inferior, as they had the same training and fighting capacity.
Initially recruited from the free provinces subjects of Rome, later began to be recruited in the new territories conquered by the legions, so it was not unusual to see Legion Celts Auxiliary Legions.
Armed with his spear, the Gladius, and protected by a mail’s coat and an oval shield, Auxiliary cohorts did a splendid job in the name of several emperors, but the glory always was for the legions.
Warlord Games Auxiliaries can be used in any scenario where the Roman war machine were. The box’s illustration shows a Celtic auxiliary unit in the Middle East performing “police” tasks against people who did not like the “police”, 😉 , one of the common tasks undertaken by the Auxilia (as they are called).
The 24 Auxiliary are equipped with chain mail and carry the sharp spears (Gladius) and short swords. They have the usual oval shield, and may be used supporting the legions, or fighting their own battles.
This set contains:
Enough parts to built 24 figures.
·Decal sheet for 35 shields, with a transparent background, to be used with any shield colour.
This a perfect set to escort you Roman legionaries, or even to built his own armies. Set have some minor issues.
-Limited poses, there are only 4 poses, with some different heads, although some conversions are possible.
– Size of this men is a bit bigger than the other Roman’s sets from Warlord.
This set haven’t command group (older box), the new boxes came with four less auxiliaries and incorporate 4 metal figures as command, a Centurion, one Option, one Cornice, and the Signifier. But again there are some size problem with this command if you have and old box of auxiliaries.
But, it is an economical set and useful, which we recommend to extend your Roman army.
Paint work for this figures have been quite easy. We have used all Citadel colours.
·Prime Chaos Black, Black, Skull White, Catachan Green, Shining Gold, Dwarf Bronze, Boltgum Metal, Mechrite Red, Blood Red, Tallarn Flesh, Scorched Brown, Graveyard Earth, Bleached Bones, Goblin Green, Babab Black y Devlam Mud. If you have other paint’s brand use black, white, olive green, gold, bronze, gun metal, dark red, light red, flesh, dark brown, earth, bone, green, and black and brown wash.<
I recommend to let the shields in the sprue until decals were applied.
After the black prime a base coat as follow.
1- Bronze/Dwarf Bronze for helmets.
2- Dry brush of metal/Boltgum in the mail, weapons, shields and sword cover.
3- Flesh/Tallarn Flesh in all skin parts.
4- Brown/Scorched Brown to belts, sandals, spears and back shields
5- Dark red/Mechrite Red to the neck scarf.
6- Earth/Graveyard Earth for the base.
7- Green/Goblin Green front shield.
8- Olive Green/Catachan Green to trousers.
Once dried apply black wash to all metal parts (except helmets) and brown wash to the rest.
Once the wash is dried apply again the base colour highlighting some parts and using dry brush for metal parts.
Some lightings in the helmets with gold/Shining Gold, weapons with metal, the scarf with the light red, sandals, belts and back shields with a mix of bone/Bleached Bone with brown/Scorched Brown and for the base a mix of bone/Bleached with Graveyard Earth/Earth.
Then is time to put the decals on the shields and to add some grass in the base.
Even if this was submitted during 2011, and i was awarded with the contribution badge for that year, this one has been finally published in the 2012 contribution list.
Just for fun… any resemblance to reality is purely coincidental !!!!
First of all, i was inspired after see this work from a big brother of scale.
Also i was interested in show this new set in a original way… so… i took a look to my spare box.. and begin to ideate a monster…
It took to me 4 days to assemble all the parts, a lot of cut, sand, glue and green stuff (putty)…
There are a lot of parts which i don’t know where come from, but more noticeable ones such turret and tracks come from an Armourfast Achilles (Tracks are cut, a bit more than half), some other parts are from unknown models, such lower turret, body chassis (also cut, and was very difficult to join the two parts again) and many little details. Legs are also done with the Armourfast set, a lot of cut needed here…
Wires in the legs are from an old computer from the work…
Exhaust in the rear part are from a Tiger I i guess… but lateral ones are also unknown for me… (So many unknow parts are because some time ago i brought a huge lot of spare parts in Ebay)
The MGs in the turret are from a recent acquisition… a Dragon set with a lot of options an extra weapons…
The ammunition belt is one of my favourite parts, it’s done with links from a Tiger I and munitions from a Hasegawa 31102 M2 155mm Gun “Long Tom” set… (I need to buy new ones, as the Long Tom is already done… but need crew and munition 🙂 )
So this beast is armed with a 155mm gun… capable to fire at an extraordinary rate… although the reload operation took some time… 🙂
The lower turret (unknown) is armed with a 40mm (QF 2 pdr) gun from a Churchill tank, probably a 1/76 matchbox one, so it looks under 40mm… maybe we can say it is a 20mm gun. 😉
The cokes detail is made with a Milk box from the HO scale… hand painted.. but i avoid to put all the brand name… i don’t want to advertise nobody for nothing 😀 , so Coke men, if you like it i’m ready to get an sponsorship… :):)
About the figures, well, these are not the complete poses, still 4 more poses came in the set, including 2 tank crews…
These figures are a good idea… for my next project a will show how they fit perfectly other things that aren’t tanks… but detail… well… they aren’t the worst, but weapons, faces and feet are poorly detailed… anyway i like this set, and also the other riders set released by Hät, but all have the same problems. Even this, they are a better option than the usual hard plastic figures which comes with the models… the only i guess is some driver for trucks, Jeeps and so, which are not included in those sets. 🙁
About colour scheme this time a variate a bit my colours for the figures, but i like more y previous U.S infantry figures. This time i used Vallejo Brown Violet instead of green and Vallejo Khaki instead of Citadel Commando Khaki. The brown trousers are painted with Vallejo Olive Drab. All washed with Devlan Mud and highlighted with white mixes and a final touch of Vallejo Iraqi Sand.
The “tank” is painted as always, grey primed and the Tamiya Spray paint. To retouch it i used Vallejo Panzer Series Olive Green. Washed mainly with Citadel Devlan Mud and some pigments.
The Albatross has to be my favourite WWI plane, in all it´s variants. The shape, the ease of build and the ease of rigging make it a great beginners plane.
The Revell Kit version may not be the most historically accurate version but it has got to be the easiest to build among all the various Albatross kits on offer. This, IMHO is a massive plus factor..who wants to get tangled in a virtually impossible build, the result of which may turn out not to meet expectations and at the cost of buying an highly accurate kit but spending frustrating hours but ending up with something not far removed from the “not so accurate” version that pleasingly took a fraction of the time?
Anyway…no long build description..the instructions with the kit are self explanatory and even a short search of the web will give plenty of decoration ideas.
I must confess I have a soft spot for winter camouflages. I had this kit in my stash for quite a while and I decided to give it a try. It is a little gem, all parts fits very well and you don’t need too much aftermarkets to build a perfect Braille Stug; it is literally a scaled down 1/35 kit.
I started with suspensions, road-wheels and the rear panel. I replaced the exhaust deflector sides with others made from a beer can. Unlike Revell, Dragon provides the PE mesh screens for air intakes and that’s a good bonus.
But not all things are perfect with this kit and, inexplicably, Dragon decided to shut down the driver’s vizor. This is not a major fault, but it’s some how odd to drive a tank with this vizor closed. It was not an easy task to open it, but in the end all the effort paid off.
I continued with the superstructure and added a few details, such as some spare tracks from a Revell kit. As for the commander cupola, the trap is a little too thick if left open but it can be replaced with one from Extratech.
After that, my model was ready for paint:
Until recently, all my models were brush painted, so I was unable to try the hairspray technique, which is impossible without an airbrush. My Stug received a a good coat of white as “base paint”, and then I dry-brushed the dunkelgelb over the white. I was quite happy with the result:
After decals, fitting the tracks and some weathering with oils and pigments, the Stug really came to life.
In conclusion, this is a highly detailed kit, very easy to put together; a “must build” for every Braille lover.
This is a pretty nice little plane to build. The actual body, wings etc fit together quite well, apart from the actual cockpit, which needs care when glueing the two halves to ensure a proper fit. Also, the Lewis gun isn’t the best representation of this weapon going..but it looks the part.
To enable “easy” rigging..I drill holes where the wires will later go, using a 0.5mm drill. I then paint all the large parts and when the paint is dry I use the tip of a pin to free any paint that has got into the holes during painting.
In the above picture you can see i am using office paper clips to hold the wing-struts to the wings. This saves having to have 4 hands 😀
To rig I use “invisible” Nylon mending thread and push it (like weaving from one hole to another) using fine point tweezers. As the thread is very thin and quite difficult to see, I advise using a marker pen to colour the end that is being pushed through the holes.
Basic method. Work out a route for the bit of rigging you want to do. It´s best to work from inner cables to outer ones. The actual route depends on how competent you feel with rigging, and I suggest rigging through a maximum of 8 holes at any one time. Take a length of thread..much longer than the route to be taken. Attach one end of the thread to a wing surface, a part of the fuselage etc with a small piece of tape, then insert the free end of the thread into the first hole..and off you go 😀
When threaded through the last hole of the chosen route, cut off the access, leaving enough to be able to pull it tight and stick down using a bit of tape. Glue (an epoxy glue like Pattex) all the holes where the thread is..let dry overnight and using a razor, cut off . Some holes may need a bit of filling (PVA wood glue works fine for this) and filling flush.
I added some Welding Lines and some simple Rivets but i don´t want to place all the missing Lines etc. Just the few on the static Turret.
The inside of this Model is modified too, but this will be visible when the Model is finished. I had to cut out some parts to give more space for the 3 Crewmen.
The Crewmen are from SHQ and the additional Stowage is made of Resin.
One of my favourite German Tank hunters in 1/72 scale. The Italeri kit is an re-issue of the old Esci Kit. Added 3 Figures from the SHQ Range (“Bison Crew” (M1943) and some Stowage. Paints and Pigments are from Vallejo.
First i primed the whole Model with Vallejo Model Color (70995) “German Dark Grey”, after that, i applied an wash with an 50/50 Mix of Citadels “Devlan Mud” and “Badab Black”. After the wash was dried i dry brushed the whole Model. Again i used ” German Dark Grey” for the first drybrush and Vallejo Model Color (70836) “London Grey” for the Raised Areas, Edges and Highlights.
The Tracks only were primed with Grey and after that i gave them a coat of several Vallejo Pigments.
A couple of months ago I attended a local 1/72 group build, and I thought maybe I should give it a try with something fun and easy to build. So I picked up this kit from Roden; it is cheap, fairly good engineered and very fun to build. Roden provides only the early version of the truck (Academy, for example offers both steel cab and late wooden cab). However, I’ve learned Roden’s version is slightly better than Academy and much better than Italeri or Airfix. Decal options cover no less than six different units. I opted for the DAK version, but in the end I regretted as the decals were no good.
A nice feature of this kit is the engine, very little and very well detailed. Only minor upgrading was necessary.
I continued with the chassis. That was the moment when I noticed the Roden plastic was more softer than I was used to and some how crumbly. Some extra care was necessary but nothing too difficult. The back tires have some sink marks that needed to be filled with some ordinary putty.
The cabin was placed on the chassis and then the cargo-bay. I added the door handles and replaced the plastic width indicators with wires. Headlights were holed. I lifted one side of the hood so at least some of the engine could be visible.
A somehow major fault of this kit are the front wheels. Simply because they are for the 4×4 version. Since the kit doesn’t provide the 4×2 front wheels, I was forced to do some hub reworking. You can see the corrections bellow:
After that, there was not much left to do for the construction. I continued with a few layers of tan yellow from Vallejo Model Color, applied with a brush. The weathering was done by dry-brushing the exposed areas with German grey and some brown colour, then pigments and oils applied at the end, followed by a good coat of flat varnish. The barrels are not from the kit.
In conclusion, this is one of the best Opel Blitz in braille scale, and, with a little effort it will turn out into a beautiful version of this iconic truck.
Is hard to know when the Elephant was used for first time at war, but it’s sure it was very common in ancient Indian armies, and they will remain during centuries in this role. Even they was a formidable weapon, they aren’t so big as African Elephants, so was no possible to create heavy structures over it to protect the crew/soldier. A well trained infantry could defeat them quite easily.
Even if it’s not sure it they was a really effective weapon against professional armies (such the Alexander’s ones.) they was a symbol of the King’s power.
This set is quite similar to other from Hät, the Macedonian Elephant , which probably were adopted by Alexander after know the Indian armies ones, the only difference is the head.
elephant comes in 3 parts, two for the body and the head. All parts fits quite well without glue. If you want to use glue to reinforce the union you will need Cyanoacrylate glue, the soft Hät´s plastic don’t glue with many other kind of glue.
Set comes with a classic crew of three men, one driver, one archer and one javelin men. All of them are well depicted in both weapons and clothes. Here i added one more men from the Hät Indian Chariot set. Figures haven’t any pin to put here over the Elephant’s back, so you can choose different combinations with more or less crew also changing the order.
Figures almost haven’t flash, which is hard to remove in this kind of soft plastic, so it’s good the absence of it.
To paint the dark Indian skin i used a base coat of Citadel Scorched Brown, then highlight then several layers of Scorched Brown mixed with Bestial brown and even Elf Flesh. Lately i used a base coat of Kemri Brown and a Devlan Mud wash, highlighting with pure Kemri Brown, which gives a better result than the first try.
Elephant figure also have been painted with Citadel paints, as follows:
Base colour is Citadel Charandon Granite, then it’s washed with Devlan mud. After wash several layers of increased mix of Charandon with Codex Grey applied by Dry Brush. A final highlighting layer of Fortress Grey have been applied. Around face, back knee and hindquarters areas another dry brush layer of Elf Flesh is used to depict the common albinism spots in this specie. Eyes are painted with Citadel Vomit Brown.
Base is made from a plastic part + cardboard over it. All covered with Pumice stone and painted directly with Ogryn Flesh. Tufts are from “The Army Painter” range.
A good set primary inspired for Alexander the Great which can be useful for other periods too. If you are lucky some boxes were manufactured with 3 elephants inside !!!
1/72 DOC Models 72001 Carro Velocce 33 Italian Light tank cv 33.
I think this is the smallest model i ever built. It is smaller than a willys jeep, more or less like a kubelwägen.
I tried to depict the Corsica 1942 camouflage scheme, but i haven’t any colour similar to the brown showed, according to conversion tables it is a Vallejo brown which i haven’t 🙁 , so i tried with Middle Brown highlighted with Citadel Snake leather.
This model can be also found in a BUM box, set 5003 Italian CTV, which also comes with some Airfix Italian WWII and another DOC models, a quite interesting resin field kitchen.
In fact, the model showed here comes from this BUM box.
The model itself is quite easy to built, there aren’t too many parts, and all fits perfectly, no flash, no mould marks and clear instructions. A pleasure to built. Hatches can be built opened.
This tiny vehicle saw service during the Spanish Civil war, although his performance was some disappointing. I think it was the same in all the fronts it saw service. No much armour, no much fire power. No much useful.
Stones in the base are natural ones, but all repainted, a medium grey as basecoat, black wash and then a 2 step highlighting, a first one with a pale or sandy white and last with pure white. Dependent on the black wash you can achieve more or less darkness stones, if you want they look more clear you can use diluted wash. Tufts are from “The army painter” range and some static grass.
For ground colour i also used Vallejo Medium Brown, it’s the second disappointing of the model, the base itself. Also shrink problems with the clay which i’m lately using for bases. Also it’s time to have problems with light in order to take good pictures. Autumn is here.
So after good start with an easy to built model finally a bad result, not very happy with this one, a work very improvable, but anyway i recommend this model. It’s a pity that DOC models only have produced two models in plastic, this one and the CV 35, another variant from the same.
As box’s illustration depict, this set is an excellent choose for winter U.S. Infantry, such those who fought in the last German winter offensive in the Ardennes, the battle of the Bulge in the 1944/45 winter.
Figures haves basically three kinds of clothing, all appropriate for the period, most of them are wearing the standard jacket M1943 and rest are wearing the long coat which was not very appreciate in combat situation for his heavy weight. Just one figure is wearing the Mackinow jacket. All the figures have the helmet clasped, which was not very common due most soldiers though this was a risk against a blast.
Straps are correct but maybe some lack of equipment is showed here, such ammunition pouches.
Weapons are well depicted, Thompson, Browning M1918 , Garand and the officer is using a pistol, which was uncommon in the late war.
Also two heavy weapons are depicted, a one men team for a 81mm mortar (x2) and also a two men team for a Browning M2HB (x2). These are quite nice figures and additions to the set.
Poses are quite standard but all figures looks natural and well proportioned. Maybe the only odd is the slim mould mark, which most times goes crossing faces. Some work to remove these are needed.
A brief tutorial to show how to paint this U.S. infantry guys only with Citadel paints.
First a base coat of Chaos black (used as primer) and then base colour for all the different items as follow:
-Scorched Brown: Coats, helmet straps, wood on weapons, trousers and leather on boots.
-Catachan Green: Helmets and clothes on necks and heads.
-Dheneb Stone + Kommando Khaki (50/50): Jackets.
-Dheneb Stone + Camo Green (75/25): Strap, Gaiters and Canteen.
-Tallarn Flesh: Flesh.
-Boltgum Metal: Weapons’ metal parts.
Once the base coat is well dried we apply a wash with Citadel Devlan Mud. (“Magic soy” as a friend says :))
Then is time to give them a highlight.
Highlight mostly have consisted in apply the original base colour (with some exceptions) in relief parts.
-Scorched Brown + Graveyard Earth: Trousers and coats. Coats haves two highlight layers increasing the proportion of Graveyard Earth and trousers just one and then final layer with pure Graveyard Earth.
Bestial Brown: Wood on weapons and boot’s leather.
-Catachan Green: Helmets.
– Kommando Khaki: Jackets.
-Dheneb Stone + Camo Green (25/75): Straps, Gaiters and Canteen.
-Tallarn Flesh: Flesh.
-Boltgum Metal: Weapons’ metal parts.
How to work the bases
Materials needed are: Packing rings, Pumice past, cardboard, white glue, epoxy bicomponent putty and Citadel Devlan Mud wash.
Vandal is a brand which manufacture Pumice past quite cheaper than Models’ brands ones, although Vallejo have and excellent range for this product, with different thickness.
Process is quite simple, glue the Packing rings to the cardboard and then cover it with putty.
Put the figure in the putty, with the help of a “lancet” cover all the figures’ base to ensure a good fixation.
Then apply Pumice past with an old brush. Once it is well dried apply directly the wash, Devlan mud.
An easy and quite nice figures for gaming are now ready.
We hope you enjoyed this, as much as me enjoyed doing it. For those who never have painted their minis, is an easy way to start !! Don’t be afraid.
Although new sets for American infantry are on the market this Revell’s one still performs well his task, heavy weapons are better implemented here than most of the new sets, so don’t miss the opportunity to get this one at best prices here.
ZSU 37mm were designed in 1943 and built from 1945 to 1948, it is the first soviet self propelled AA, but soon the poor 37mm gun shown his weakness , so it was improved in a short time and replaced by newest models. In fact it never saw action during the WWII although a few units were deployed for the 1945’s spring.
UM model haves a very acceptable quality, it haves some photo-etched details and good decals, although my box seems was spoiled at store, and none of one was present. Decals are taken from spare box, numerals are from other UM set, and stars are white U.S. stars, hand painted to red… so they look a bit so.
Instructions are clear and easy to follow, all the parts fits well their place. Nu putty was used at all.
Tracks are in segments, with some one to one links, this not avoid to have tight tracks, instead of some fall in upper segment. Turret easily rotate but mount the gun allowing it to have elevation is not so easy, so this one is fixed. One of the lacks of the set is it not haves any frame for the 37mm, so it is un-armoured.
Figures are from LW (LW 20 Russian Tank Crew), not a great set, i only had 3 figures from a BUM box, but they was the only Russian tank crews which was at my glance. They are a bit small, some flash and mould lines, but detail is deep and easy to work, at least, clothes. The worst, probably the faces and the poses. Other options for this subject are Orion and Preiser, and now two figures from the new Hät set, although as this turret is wide open it needs full figures rather than half ones.
Colour Guide: Vehicle: Base colour is Vallejo Model Color Russian Uniform. Washed with Citadel Devlan Mud and the highlighted dry brushing it with a 1:1 mix of white and Russian Uniform. Some details in Citadel Red inside the turret.
(Note than manufacturer guide suggest olive green which is not so light as this Russian Uniform) Base: Base Colour is Vallejo Model Color Middle Brown (Diluted). It isn’t washed and highlighted with Vallejo Model Color Iraki Sand.
Figures: Uniform base colour is Vallejo Model Color German Extra Dark Green Cammo. Highlighted with a 1:1 mix of White and the same colour. This Vallejo’s green has a high blue-grey component which is more appreciable once you mix it with white, so they don’t look green.
Faces and hands are painted with Citadel Dwarf flesh and highlighted with Elf flesh after an Ogryn Flesh wash. (This is not my preferred mix for faces i usually use Elf flesh as base, Ogryn Flesh wash and highlight with the same Elf flesh or a mix with a bit of white 3:1 or 2:1 )
Leather helmet is Citadel snake leather and the black ons is highlight with Vallejo German Grey.
Bits on the base are taken from the spare box, including some HO railway bits and two drums from an old ESCI T-72. To cover the drums i used paper tissue, watered to achieve the desired shape and then i airbrushed it with Spray varnish to keep the shape.
Tracks and base items also haves some pigments, wet applied. Low vehicle surface haves pigments dry applied.
Tufts in the base are from the excellent range of The Army Painter, which i recommend if you are looking for tufts. These used here are concretely the Highlands tufts.
This time i work the base with clay, it allows me to put some track marks. Over the dried clay i used some Vallejo pumice paste to imitate earth.
This is my first UM set and i’mm very happy with final result. I recommend this brand.
If you want to purchase this set at good prices, take a look here.
This is the small box set of the Greek cavalry set 1510 that came with Chariot and horsemen. Set 1510 is available from Nexus as set ATL06
The Atlantic set contains one sprue in bleached orange plastic containing one chariot, two crew and 4 horses. No-one really knows if the greeks used chariots in warfare but this could be a battle taxi (to get the lord to the front line) or a racing chariot.
Basically the set is a bit of an historical mess..the hoplite style of armour doesn’t fit to the period in which chariots were used in warfare, and even then, the Greeks were principally a foot soldier army..
The set taken as it is, ignoring any historical mistakes, is ok.
Very little flash and the sculpting is finely done. Everything fits together well, no glue needed and the crew come with bases so they can be used independent of the chariot.
Now for the set built and painted. As ever I have used Acrylics. The base is made from sand mixed with wood-glue and then dry brushed with sand brown acrylic. The traces (reins) I added. This was done using a sowing needle and some thread, I just pushed the needle through the place where the bit in the horses mouth is…;-) Close up, it can be clearly seen that the traces are thread but on the tabletop..they look fine. The actual set up..ie, how many traces were used is also unclear so i went for a full set per horse..difficult to imagine how the poor driver would hold them all in one hand wile holding the whip in the other but that´s his problem 😀
The set I have painted isn´t the original from Atlantic but a re-issue set from Nexus
You can buy this set as Atlantic here, or as Nexus here.
I’ve always liked this symbol of the Russian army and soon as I’ve heard about its release I wanted one for myself. This snap kit proved to be the perfect opportunity. Though apparently designed for wargaming, I’ve learned from Russian forums it has the most accurate dimensions in 1/72 scale.
It will turn out fine just out of the box, but I decided to upgrade it with a photo-etched set from Part and a gun barrel from Aber. Although designed for the ancient Eastern Express T-34/76 ’43 (late version with a raised commander cupola), the Part set fits almost perfectly. The snap technology is quite OK, I glued all plastic parts together for extra strength.
The Aber barrel however was a huge disappointment: is far too short. Even the label is wrong, as it designates a F-32 gun, while T-34 used the F-34 gun. So I was stuck with the gun barrel from the box, which looks just fine (you have to drill it though).
The mesh grills from the Part photo-etched set fits perfectly, except for the small pair on the top. I used a tow cable from Karaya and made few additions myself: lifting rings on the turret, power cable for the headlight, MG barrel from a syringe needle, holding straps for the fuel drums (which came from an IS-2 made by PST). The tracks are very easy to assemble, and are provided in hard plastic, not link&length but in large sections thus saving a lot of time. I also drilled the exhausts.
After spraying Tamiya white primer, I brushed four layers of Vallejo Russian Green from Model Color range. This particular range of paintings is perfect for hand brush.
The final touches were oil washes and some pigments, applied also wet and dry. The decals are not from the kit and were taken from my spare box. In conclusion, this kit is very well engineered, it’s easy to build. I highly recommend it to all T-34 fans and Braille lovers.
I hope you like it and you can buy this set at best prices here.
This is a very nice set…a combination of figure painting and a bit of model construction. The set contains 10 figures, of which only two are repeats, the cannonier firing the guns., 2 cannons, a horse team and sacks, buckets, rams and ammunition boxes.
All the poses are natural and fit perfectly to the artillery pieces.
The guns themselves…
Each gun fits together perfectly…no glueing required whatsoever. I advise building each gun before painting. This makes painting them a bit more complicated than painting each section individually but it will save a lot of annoyance when putting the parts together and seeing your paintwork rub off!! The wheels can be painted seperately and fitted last. Here I advise a prefit. The holes in the wheels fit very tightly on the axles..and it may be necessary to open them up a bit with the tip of a toothpick. When you finally fit them, add a thin film of vaseline to the axle..it helps to ease them on.
Now on to the rest of the set,
The crews…I have added the crews to the guns…I won´t make any comment about them, apart from they are all historically correct and a real joy, there are enough in the set to service every weapon!! 😀
All figures and weapons painted with acrylics. Basework, Mixture from sand and woodglue, with natural and synthetic decoration.
After the French Campaign during the WW2, the Germans used occupied Vehicles to rebuild them into Vehicles used by the Wehrmacht. One of these Vehicles was the French Unic P 107, a small halftrack which fell in German Hands in huge amounts. The German “Baugruppe Becker” turned these into a small APC, further named “leichter Schützenpanzerwagen (leSPW) auf Unic P-107 U-304 (f). “f” stands for “French”.
Well, the shown Kit is from ACE. It´s the only Modelkit besides several Resinkits of this Vehicle in 20mm. The Parts are not very accurate so it will need some work to let all the Parts fit and get an nice Model. I had to fill several Gaps with Putty and there was very much flash to remove. Last but not least there are some very bad mould lines which have to be removed before assembling the Model.
The Model was painted by using a 5:1 Mix of Vallejo Model Color (70882) “Middlestone” and (70916) “Sand Yellow”. After that i applied an Wash of Citadels “Gryphone Sepia” followed by a Dry-brush with Middlestone. The Green Camouflage pattern was painted with (70891) “Intermediate Green”. I stiffled the Colour on the Base coat by using an old medium soft Brush. For the chippings I used my favourite Colour for these instances (70822) “German Camouflage Black Brown”, which gives really nice chips and blotches.
Vallejo Pigments were used to create Dust and Dirt.
Well, second entry for confederate artillery, painted in a more irregular style, as usually they are depicted. This time Imex 302 set, which haves 3 guns and one limber, instead of the 2 and 2 from the Accurate set. This set also comes with several infantry figures, which i reserve for future infantry bases.
Full review at Plastic Soldier Review, also you can purchase the set here. The officer also isn’t from Imex set, it comes from Accurate/Revell infantry set.
To be honest once again i’m not very gladded with final result, bases looks pretty well for gaming, but figures paint work isn’t my best. The one i loves the bounded old man seated on the limber, a great figure.
The worst faces details, aren’t too depth, so bad result achieved by washes / dry brush technique.
Horses are the same poses than the Accurate set, and also the figure riding one, but with some details added.
The fourth gun, on the limber (set only haves three) is a mix of an Imex body and Accurate barrel. Defends are from Accurate pioneers set and Imex ACW accessory. I must say Accurate artillery figures are a bit taller, and also guns are bigger, but quite compatibles. If i will paint Confederate artyllery some time it will be a mix of both sets, Accurate and Imex. (I still haves one of each.)
With this work i completes 5 guns and 2 limbers, which is enough to play by the moment.
Next ACW work will be Confederate cavalry, probably Imex and Gulliver ones.
Well, I admit that I have a weakness for fast kit, my assembling skills are quite limited so I do not like to lose several days to assemble a model, then it will not be particularly well, i don’t take advantage of the best detail models against the fast kit, and always with wargaming in mind, these sets provide a number of valuable things, pretty decent quality, affordable, and with no many boxes and little time spent on the installation is easy and quick to built an adequate number of vehicles.
I purchased several from Italeri in recent times and the first ones I have completed are these Pz III. The truth, I am not especially proud of them, are by far not my best work. The first problem with paint, after some good experiences with Tamiya spray paint had to come some bad. I’m not very happy with the gray which Tamiya offers for German vehicles, maybe I’m used to more bluish tone of my previous work.
Another thing I do not like much of this work are the bases, I wanted to do something different to the usual, not being very repetitive with green grass and “tufts”, so I decided to make two different bases one for each model.
One inspired in an autumnal landscape or pre winter, we can consider as my first attempt to make mud and wetlands.
And another inspired, as you see, in a field of tall grass and dry … it has cost me that my girlfriend commented that I seem to have put the tank on top of one of our cats …
Certainly this second base with herbs, is the one that disappointed me …
The base of the mud has left me a little happier, I have not done anything special, but not much appreciate the wetlands, it is more a question of the angles of the photos, it looks a bit better in natural, and indeed I got it simply applying gloss varnish in areas where moisture wanted to imitate. Perhaps worse is the material that I used to simulate the mud, which is the paste that I usually use for the bases.
On models there is not much to tell, are very easy to assemble and there are option to mount the two long-or short-barreled, I went for one and one. One of the shortcomings of the set is the lack of decals, I’ve had to pull out from other models. It also has a small defect in the front, board between lower and top plate, which may be filled with a bit putty, and another thing I don’t liked is the way to mount the guns, which prevent any elevation movement of the barrel. Yet it is a model that I recommend for wargaming, 2 Pz 3 which are mounted in a half hour and are very robust and appropriate for game.
In summary a job very improved in all aspects, I’m not satisfied either with vehicles or with the bases. Also was the typical work I’ve seen worse with each successive stage, but I guess that sometimes happens. To don’t be happy I’m not happy even with the framing and the distance of the photos.
I found this model very appealing to the wargaming, a 37 mm anti tank on a Dodge truck 4 × 4 can be a good weapon, given their mobility and weaponry.
Italeri model has an acceptable level of detail, the pieces are quite clean and the instructions are clear and simple, the number of parts is low.
But problems start right away or at least for me. First of all the figures that are included in the set, 3, but no useful, a manufacturer that shows the quality of sculpture like Italeri must do something better, the detail of the figures is worthless compared to what we see in the market in the figure’s sets, so none of the three has been included in the final assembly.
Other small details, which are not to my taste, were the wheels, which come in two halves, which I have not seen to be a problem in many models from Revell, the front and rear views shows that something happens, if you leave it you have to work with lime and / or putty, and I’m not very friend of having to spend too much work to assemble, but I like to go fast to the painting phase.
But worst of all is built top with the chassis, the instructions lead to a sequence where the top and the fully assembled chassis are built separately and then assembled, the chassis in one piece and the top in two. Well, it has been quite difficult getting these parts fit decently, and I’m still not sure if i did it, as seen in the photos seems to me very great distance between the front wheels and mudguards. In short, a whole afternoon polishing and adjusting the parts to solve this step is the final instructions.
The figures that make up the framework are taken from two different sets, with some minor conversions. On one side is a figure of American Infantry Set II from Caesar (Second figure of the second row), which I have removed the gun, and on the other side there are two figures from the set of US Marines from Waterloo 1815 (2nd and 3rd figures of the 3 rd and 4 th row), which I’ve changed the head by two of the classic set ESCI / Italeri’s that I have a lot of figures and one of them I’ve removed the gun.
Besides these changes in the figures I have not added anything to the vehicle, one of the cans of gasoline is changed of site according instructions, but comes with the set, and I also seem to complain about the two guns that brings the set to sides of the seats, a piece so simple and so badly done.
The paint for the vehicle is based on Tamiya spray paint, and the figures in Catachan Green and Dheneb Stone from Citadel with diluted sepia washes from Vallejo and dry brush with Kommando Khaki and Camo Green for brown and green, respectively. I used also the Green Camo with White to the vehicle. The decals are original from model and I have applied pigments in the bottom area and wheels.
A set desirable but frankly improvement.
Last Update, thanks to Benno’s Figures Forum member i was noticed about a mistake on instructions, you can correct it taken a look here.
Just one figure, painted for a job partner’s son, who recently comes into Warhammer 40K World.
I don’t know much about this troops, they are part of the imperial army, and no more.
Painted following the excellent article form GW here.
Just one of the unique figures from this good set, painted as example for a friend.
I used as reference back box illustration.
Base is a 2 euro cent.
The set haves the standard quality from Zvezda, with some separate parts which allow some easy modifications on figures.
This set has 28 figures in Roman “testudo” formation, which can be extend with more sets.
1/72 Accurate 7204 American Civil War Artillery Team
A complete review can be found, as always at PlasticSoldierReview.
Set haves 18 figures, two guns and two limber with eight horses. I reserved one officer figure, and also just put one horse rider in the limber, as both are the same figure (Figure also present on Imex confederate artillery set, which is done by the same sculptor, i think). Also, i just painted one limber.
This set, also issued by Revell, is intended for both, union and confederate armies, although they look more confederates for me.
Bases are from Warbases.co.uk and i pretend use them for two big armies for both sides.
Accurate ACW sets have one thing i like, proportion of the figures aren’t always the same, which looks more natural, as real life. an example, one of the seated figures on the limber, is clearly an old men, with belly 🙂 ! and gun crew also are men from different sizes.
By the way the set have some flash, but the worst is the lack of detail on some important areas as faces. In general, details isn’t quite depth, so after prime it’s difficult to see all, not good for a wash + dry bush technique.
Light grey is not an easy colour for me, but this time i’m gladded with result.
Base colour is Citadel “Fortress Grey”, washed with diluted black, and then, dry bush with “Fortress Grey” +White.
This is the first step to built two armies, to play with “Fire & Fury” and “American Civil War Battles” rules. So this year many ACW items will be show here.
An easy and robust model, as correspond to a fast-kit. Figures are well detailed, only odd, they are too big, as lately is doing Italeri. Even vehicle and gun looks bigger than 1/72, although Lancia was a big vehicle.
This bigger size on figures translate to an easy paint job.
Cammo net is done with band, but i’m not very gladded with final result, they looks big in a close view so it isn’t fixed. There are pictures with and without the net.
Base colour for both, vehicles and figures, is Tamiya TS-3 Dark Yellow spray paint. Dry-Brush with different sand colours, sepia wash and pigments. About terrain there are some natural stones, tufts home made with an old brush, pigments an some commercial clump foliage.
Just two figures from this set, they are company for one gift i’m close to end, an Apache helicopter for a friend, although it’s not going well… things which fly are not for me, many problems with cockpit.
I know they are not very accurate as pilots for an Apache, but, i haven’t any other set of “modern” pilots.
Complete set have 17 figures in 9 different poses, but only 8 figures in 8 poses come to me through an ebay auction.
Detail is quite good, some historical accuracy problems as you can see at PlasticSoldierReview.com review.
Recently Italeri launched another Mongols set, quite big that this, as lately is doing Italeri with all the subjects. They are painted for a project long time ago started, which is coming to his end, but i can’t say more now. Because this they are painted in two colours, green and blue, and better as much as they look more green or blue.
By the way i tried to use GW tips to paint gold armour, which is a bit more complicated than silver ones. For gold armours base colour is a dark brown, and gold over this. Silver ones are painted with the good Citadel range of silver colours, washed in black and highlighted with Mithril Silver. Always a good result. Better work can be done with gold ones.
I finally ends this work after a couple of weeks thinking about what to do to improve them…
I enjoyed a lot with this kind of bases, each item is like a mini-dio, so i’m planning built all the armies so.
Bases are from the store: Warbases.co.uk
They cut rounded bases in any size you need, with good prices.
One of the worst the decision to use the hard plastic figures from the set itself… they look not so bad alone, but close to Caesar and Italeri figures… they look bad…
Although set is a clone from Hasegawas’s one, quality of the instructions is poor, very poor. Quality of the set is that mixture of simply and medium detail, usual on Hasegawas’s set.
On bases there are a mixture of tufts which i will comment soon in a separate post, and also a mixture of natural stones, some of them painted (in the jeep base).
and also hard plastic items form Hasegawa’s US infantry set (in the gun base).