To end for today, a work i ended a couple of months ago, but never found time to take pictures. It’s a Reaper bones dragon, over a LOTR ruins reworked, raided by a Warlord Games cavalry man from their ECW range. Most of the work here was done by airbrush, except final lights and shadows and the rider figure.
He’s part of KoW army, kingdoms of men, in fact, he is the general of the army. Hope he will perform well in the battle.
I enjoyed a lot doing this, first of all, because it’s for me and not commissioned, second because it’s another try to improve my airbrush usage, and last one because i like it, and like how dangerous can be on a KoW battle.
The Reaper dragon it’s a nice piece, cheap, very cheap for his size.
Hi Folks, long time without publish anything there. I should remedy it.
I have literally thousand’s figures over the paint table. Everything started and just a few ended. Hope to start to finish some large parts soon. While this happen i already ended some single pieces, and eclectic mix, with a common factor, all are intended to play the fantasy game Kings of War, which is successfully running his second edition now.
First, i painted a few Dwarves for a friend who play with them. By one side i painted 3 females dwarves, who are part of larger unit, their captains. These figures are from the Tale of War (old) range. They are nice sculpted, except, maybe, the faces. The pictures of the full units are not mine, are from the owner, you can follow all his work here (Spanish language)
And second i painted 2 single male figures, from the Reaper Bones range, who will act as Stone Priests in the game. I enjoyed painting the left ones, even if it’s Bones, it’s a nice figure, with and overall good presence. I already talk about Bones in the past, it’s not best material to paint, as well as it present less detail than their metal counterparts, but they are cheaper, very cheap indeed, so they always are an option to don’t waste your pocket and get what you want. Price/Quality rate make them very attractive.
Left one is code 77220: Herryk, Dwarf Cleric which also haves metal counterpart, while right ones is 77383: Barden Barrelstrap This is one will be released in October..
I finished this single piece to ends the content of the Ogres Leadbelchers box, which contains 4 figures. In KoW 4 is a bad number for Ogres, you can rank 3 or 6.. so the remaining figure should be something different to a Boomer. I converted the figure, changing gun’s arm position, with some green stuff, cut here, cut there..
Base is made with cork fragments.
Some work is done with airbrush, as i’m trying to practice, a mixed technique airbrush/brush.
Although i don’t dislike the result i prefer the skin tone used in the Boomers. Anyway was interesting to try a different skin tone.
28mm – Games Workshop – Ogre Kingdoms Leadbelchers (KoW Boomers)
I purchased these guys to reinforce my Kings of War human army, but in the forthcoming V.2 i can only carry them as allies, it haves his benefits, although this concrete unit, Boomers, is beings restructured and they will not be so brutes as they were. Anyway i enjoyed a lot painting these, i used airbrush for the ogre’s skin, applying base coat and two highlights. I need to improve such technique a lot, but i like result, it’s the first time. Anyway i don’t feel confidence enough to apply it on nothing smaller than these ogres.. so. These are my first Ogres ever, but also my first Goblins, Red Goblins, as they should be because they are Ogre’s slaves… that say KoW rules.
To my taste, these ogres depict better the Boomers description than the Mantic Ogres themselves…
Hope you like them too.
HassleFree Fantasy Humans (and a Undead Necromancer)
I painted some of my single figures to start the year. All are by Hasslefree Miniatures, and all, have an excellent detail level, beautiful movement and perfect proportions. These figures, are probably the best i ever painted.
They are intended to join my Kings Of War Human’s Army. Some will be Heroes, some other will be ranked as captains. And probably Taxxis will never play.. who knows, she can be a good mage too.
I did some artistic touch on pictures this time, but i also attach original ones.
Taxxis (B)FerrusVolk the BastardAkos the ScornedLibby & Sabre-tooth Tigress
A family picture with some other beast i painted too…
And the normal pictures.. (click on them to enlarge)
Not everything can be renaissance polish… so a small update with a very nice Mantic Games figures, a Berserker Lord for their Kings of War game.
PAINT GUIDE: Skin
For the skin tones i used the Skin paint set by scale 75, following more or less their guide included.
Base colour is Pink flesh (also can be used Citadel Dwarf flesh (old name)) , then i apply a wash of Citadel Ogryn Flesh (now called Reikland flesh tone).
Then two successive highlights with a mix of Pink Flesh + Gold Flesh increasing Gold Flesh in each iteration (This can be done also mixing Citadel Dwarf flesh + Elf flesh (sorry i don’t know the new names))
As this set haves another colour called Light Flesh i added two extra highlights mixing Gold Flesh + Light Flesh.
To end, very small touches of the Pale Flesh (Vallejo haves a similar skin tone called Light Flesh)
Gold Metal parts
Trying some NMM technique here, using Vallejo Model Color, from their special set for NMM.
Base colour is Heavy Brown, to add some more contrast you can give it a wash of Devlan Mud or Dark Tone by The Army Painter.
Then apply Gold Brown, and then 2 or 3 successive highlights with Gold Brown + White, increasing the white in each mix.
To end, a very small touches of pure white.
Silver Metal parts
Very similar to gold tones, but varying colours used. Base colour is Cold grey (also from Vallejo Model Color NMM set), apply a black wash, and then start to highlight with Cold Grey + White. To end a final touch of pure white in the edges.
The blueish tone around the gold area in the axes is done with diluted turquoise blue, mixed with some white.
Cape (Red)
Base colour is a dark red, Citadel have some one in their range, but any other will work. I apply a first highlight of Vallejo Flat Red, and then to homogenize tone i wash with a red wash (From The Army Painter in my case).
Then i highlight again with Flat Red and to end a final touch with Vermilion Red (Vallejo)
Cape (Back)
Maybe this is the easier part, and it can be done with a lot of colours, just choose your favourite brown or grey, depend on the style of cape you want.
I used Vallejo Brown Sand, washed with Dark Tone (Army Painter) , some parts where highlighted (dry brush) with the Brown Sand again and some other with a mix of White + Brown Sand. Some final touches of this last highlight were applied by brush.
Skull
Base coat is a pale white, such “Rotting Flesh” or “Skull white” , black wash the eyes caves, and then pure white.
Dwarf beard is done with a grey colour, washing black, and highlighting with pure white, first by dry brush and then some small touches with brush to emphasize some parts.
Something different for today.
A friend will assist next Weekend to the first Official Regional Tournament of “Kings of War” in Madrid (Spain). As he run out of time to bring his army fully painted to the tournament i offered my help painting this beautiful Dwarf regiment, mounted in Brocks !! a very different subject to our usual work.
This figures are cast in a sort of soft plastic / resin, right arm is separated so you have different combinations. The three especial figures have the the right arm cast of metal. The musician, that sort of auto-drum, get a lot of metal in the right arm, so it’s a very unstable figure even once based. If you works your own one try to put the arm as closets to the body as you can.
Another hard point in this figures are the capes, you must need to work with putty to fill the junction on shoulders, is a not very well engineered part. Also for our personal taste, fabric capes would allow a more colorist / striking paint work, but they are skins, probably also of Brock, although we avoid the same pattern used in Brock to don’t homogenize to much colours used.
Also you have to take care about the cape angle, or it will avoid a correct position of the saddle over the brock, as cape block the correct position because hit the brock’s back before the saddle is in the correct position.
Heads, some Brocks armour plates, and Brock’s heads for the capes are also separated parts. I prefer to don’t use the Brock’s heads in the capes, but they already came glued to me.
There are just a few parts were you can put colour, so i used blue, easy to highlight and very striking, to counteract so many metal and skins.
Brock can be painted in several patterns, just take a look at real ones and choose your right ones. They came in two valves and there are two different poses.
Overall detail in figures is very good, there are some small mould lines, and the soft material used not always easy to work with a knife in intricate parts, but they are very nice figures.
It have been a pleasure to work on something different for a while.
Scale models, miniatures, plastic soldiers, war gaming.
We use cookies to ensure that we give you the best experience on our website. We don't show third part advertisement based on cookies neither share any kind of data with third part companies. Our only cookies are used to track your visits in the site, so please accept them. AcceptDeclineRead more
