Coates & Shine 8143 Indian Chariot (Hät 8143)

Chariots were introduced by Aryans in the middle of 2nd BC century, and they were permanently used by the southern kingdoms while northern kingdoms were too mountain to use them. In this age Indian was a convulse territory with a lot of kingdoms fighting between them. Chariots were usually riding by noble men and was often used to charge against infantry formation to spread them as cavalry do. They also have an important physiologic component, see a two or four horse chariot charging against you… well…

Hät set comes with three teams of two horse chariots, they are well designed, better than the box illustration, which shows two lower lateral parts. You also get three men for each chariot, a driver, an archer and a noble men. They comes with a base, so can be useful for other things. Set also comes with some “estrange” extras, an elephant rider and an infantry man who can be used as crew instead of one of the above mentioned or you can reserve it for future uses as i did :). Set also comes with a beautiful umbrella which i used with the elephant set. As the mast is too soft i replaced it.

Maybe this figures looks to tick, but i like this style. Although the poses looks a bit strange in a first sigh they take a better appearance once they are put together in the chariot. Maybe you want to remove the base, but be careful with feet, cut this very soft plastic can achieve a disaster ! They fit tight even without bases so i prefer to don’t this.

Figures are quite well detailed and even if they are soft plastic the chariot parts fits very well, even without glue.

Paint

This time i used a different combination for the Indian skin, they are black primed and a layer of Khemri Brown. Washed with Devlan Mud and two lighting coats, one with Khemri Brown and second with a mix of Bleached bone and Khemri Brown.

Horses aren't the best, maybe you may replace it with some of the spare box.

For the horses i used Scorched Brown as base coat, washed with Devlam Mud, highlighted with Bestial Brown. Belts in red, straps also in red, they are made with slim wire (from loaf :)). Put them prior to painting, they need to drill, i recommend to drill a bit tick than the wire is.

Brown have been used for the chariot with some red, orange white and metal, not the best painting, but, it is for the battle field, not for a contest 😀

Although always there are different opinions about Hät quality or style this one is a quite well engineered set and easy to built. This one completes the Hät’s ancient Indian sets with infantry, cavalry, elephants and chariots, what more do you want ? ;).

Even the odds it is a cheap and quite nice option for gaming, yo get three full chariots with some extras.
You can buy this set here.

“Cupa Cetatii” (The Citadel Cup) modelling contest

Last weekend I attended my first modelling contest since I’ve started this hobby. It took place in Alba Iulia, Transylvania, with a wonderful preserved historical relics. A good place to exhibit historical miniatures.

The city of Alba Iulia hosts a modelling exhibition every year, but this was the first time a contest was also organized. It is an opportunity for the modellers throughout Romania to meet and exchange impressions. The organizers, a very passionate team from Alba, also invited modellers from Hungary and Italy.

Some pictures from the exhibition (through the courtesy of AMA modelling association):

I participated with four models, three in 1/72 scale and one in 1/48 scale. To my surprise, many of the most valuable models were displayed in the “out of the contest area”. Maybe that’s why I was lucky to go home with three awards.

I would like to congratulate the organizers (AMA modelling association) and all the participants. I hope this event will turn into a beautiful tradition.

by Florin David

Warlord Games 28mm – WGIR5 Imperial Roman Auxiliaries

Auxiliary troops fought like their counterparts, the Legion, despite what we think today, this troops were not inferior, as they had the same training and fighting capacity.

Initially recruited from the free provinces subjects of Rome, later began to be recruited in the new territories conquered by the legions, so it was not unusual to see Legion Celts Auxiliary Legions.

Armed with his spear, the Gladius, and protected by a mail’s coat and an oval shield, Auxiliary cohorts did a splendid job in the name of several emperors, but the glory always was for the legions.

Warlord Games Auxiliaries can be used in any scenario where the Roman war machine were. The box’s illustration shows a Celtic auxiliary unit in the Middle East performing “police” tasks against people who did not like the “police”, 😉 , one of the common tasks undertaken by the Auxilia (as they are called).

The 24 Auxiliary are equipped with chain mail and carry the sharp spears (Gladius) and short swords. They have the usual oval shield, and may be used supporting the legions, or fighting their own battles.

This set contains:

Enough parts to built 24 figures.

·Decal sheet for 35 shields, with a transparent background, to be used with any shield colour.

This a perfect set to escort you Roman legionaries, or even to built his own armies. Set have some minor issues.
-Limited poses, there are only 4 poses, with some different heads, although some conversions are possible.

– Size of this men is a bit bigger than the other Roman’s sets from Warlord.

This set haven’t command group (older box), the new boxes came with four less auxiliaries and incorporate 4 metal figures as command, a Centurion, one Option, one Cornice, and the Signifier. But again there are some size problem with this command if you have and old box of auxiliaries.

But, it is an economical set and useful, which we recommend to extend your Roman army.

Paint:

Paint work for this figures have been quite easy. We have used all Citadel colours.

·Prime Chaos Black, Black, Skull White, Catachan Green, Shining Gold, Dwarf Bronze, Boltgum Metal, Mechrite Red, Blood Red, Tallarn Flesh, Scorched Brown, Graveyard Earth, Bleached Bones, Goblin Green, Babab Black y Devlam Mud. If you have other paint’s brand use black, white, olive green, gold, bronze, gun metal, dark red, light red, flesh, dark brown, earth, bone, green, and black and brown wash.< /p>
I recommend to let the shields in the sprue until decals were applied.

After the black prime a base coat as follow.

1- Bronze/Dwarf Bronze for helmets.

2- Dry brush of metal/Boltgum in the mail, weapons, shields and sword cover.

3- Flesh/Tallarn Flesh in all skin parts.

4- Brown/Scorched Brown to belts, sandals, spears and back shields

5- Dark red/Mechrite Red to the neck scarf.

6- Earth/Graveyard Earth for the base.

7- Green/Goblin Green front shield.

8- Olive Green/Catachan Green to trousers.

Once dried apply black wash to all metal parts (except helmets) and brown wash to the rest.

Once the wash is dried apply again the base colour highlighting some parts and using dry brush for metal parts.
Some lightings in the helmets with gold/Shining Gold, weapons with metal, the scarf with the light red, sandals, belts and back shields with a mix of bone/Bleached Bone with brown/Scorched Brown and for the base a mix of bone/Bleached with Graveyard Earth/Earth.

Then is time to put the decals on the shields and to add some grass in the base.

You can buy this excellent set here.

Hät U.S. Tank Riders 8265 – Riding a Frankenstein

Hät U.S. Tank Riders 8265 – Riding a Frankenstein

Even if this was submitted during 2011, and i was awarded with the contribution badge for that year, this one has been finally published in the 2012 contribution list.

Just for fun… any resemblance to reality is purely coincidental !!!!

First of all, i was inspired after see this work from a big brother of scale.

Also i was interested in show this new set in a original way… so… i took a look to my spare box.. and begin to ideate a monster…

An engineering exercise taking care of the spare box... 🙂

It took to me 4 days to assemble all the parts, a lot of cut, sand, glue and green stuff (putty)…
There are a lot of parts which i don’t know where come from, but more noticeable ones such turret and tracks come from an Armourfast Achilles (Tracks are cut, a bit more than half), some other parts are from unknown models, such lower turret, body chassis (also cut, and was very difficult to join the two parts again) and many little details. Legs are also done with the Armourfast set, a lot of cut needed here…
Wires in the legs are from an old computer from the work…
Exhaust in the rear part are from a Tiger I i guess… but lateral ones are also unknown for me… (So many unknow parts are because some time ago i brought a huge lot of spare parts in Ebay)

The MGs in the turret are from a recent acquisition… a Dragon set with a lot of options an extra weapons…

2 MG, 1 40mm gun (lower turret) and 1 powerful 155mm gun...

The ammunition belt is one of my favourite parts, it’s done with links from a Tiger I and munitions from a Hasegawa 31102 M2 155mm Gun “Long Tom” set… (I need to buy new ones, as the Long Tom is already done… but need crew and munition 🙂 )

A full view... an strange silhouette have been seen in the horizon... German report.

So this beast is armed with a 155mm gun… capable to fire at an extraordinary rate… although the reload operation took some time… 🙂
The lower turret (unknown) is armed with a 40mm (QF 2 pdr) gun from a Churchill tank, probably a 1/76 matchbox one, so it looks under 40mm… maybe we can say it is a 20mm gun. 😉

A lot of problems trying to make a smooth surface, not achieved, and a beautiful ammunition belt.

The cokes detail is made with a Milk box from the HO scale… hand painted.. but i avoid to put all the brand name… i don’t want to advertise nobody for nothing 😀 , so Coke men, if you like it i’m ready to get an sponsorship… :):)

Some cokes to drink after the work... maybe heated so close to motor... 🙂

About the figures, well, these are not the complete poses, still 4 more poses came in the set, including 2 tank crews…
These figures are a good idea… for my next project a will show how they fit perfectly other things that aren’t tanks… but detail… well… they aren’t the worst, but weapons, faces and feet are poorly detailed… anyway i like this set, and also the other riders set released by Hät, but all have the same problems. Even this, they are a better option than the usual hard plastic figures which comes with the models… the only i guess is some driver for trucks, Jeeps and so, which are not included in those sets. 🙁

This guy is thinking in his coke... behind him there is a hand made detail with tissue paper...

About colour scheme this time a variate a bit my colours for the figures, but i like more y previous U.S infantry figures. This time i used Vallejo Brown Violet instead of green and Vallejo Khaki instead of Citadel Commando Khaki. The brown trousers are painted with Vallejo Olive Drab. All washed with Devlan Mud and highlighted with white mixes and a final touch of Vallejo Iraqi Sand.
The “tank” is painted as always, grey primed and the Tamiya Spray paint. To retouch it i used Vallejo Panzer Series Olive Green. Washed mainly with Citadel Devlan Mud and some pigments.

You can buy the U.S riders here.

I took a lot of pictures because i was trying artificial illumination, as those days is impossible to take pictures with natural light.

Tomás Castaño 1/72 Figures. WWII and Spanish Peninsular War.

Today i meet the excellent Spanish sculptor Tomás Castaño, in the past he works with Andrea Miniatures, and today he owns his own company and site at http://www.cast48.com/ , but the most interesting for us is that he sculpted some beautiful 1/72 figures.

Late WWII German Infantry (5 poses)


At some time these one were released by Almogavers Figures.

Spanish Line Infantry – Spanish Peninsular War (Spanish Independence War) (21 Poses)

This figures were released time ago under Falcata Miniaturas brand.

Cheers.

Revell 1/72nd Albatross D.III

The Albatross has to be my favourite WWI plane, in all it´s variants. The shape, the ease of build and the ease of rigging make it a great beginners plane.

The Revell Kit version may not be the most historically accurate version but it has got to be the easiest to build among all the various Albatross kits on offer. This, IMHO is a massive plus factor..who wants to get tangled in a virtually impossible build, the result of which may turn out not to meet expectations and at the cost of buying an highly accurate kit but spending frustrating hours but ending up with something not far removed from the “not so accurate” version that pleasingly took a fraction of the time?

Anyway…no long build description..the instructions with the kit are self explanatory and even a short search of the web will give plenty of decoration ideas.

Colour scheme of Lt. Bruno Loerzer, Jasta 26, western front, summer 1917.
In the colours of Lt Werner Voss, Jaste 2, Boelcke, June 1917. The pilot is from the Dark Dream Studio "Pilots of the First World War"

You can buy now the Dark Dream Studio "Pilots of the First World War"

1/72 Dragon 7283 – Stug III Ausf G Early

I must confess I have a soft spot for winter camouflages. I had this kit in my stash for quite a while and I decided to give it a try. It is a little gem, all parts fits very well and you don’t need too much aftermarkets to build a perfect Braille Stug; it is literally a scaled down 1/35 kit.

I started with suspensions, road-wheels and the rear panel. I replaced the exhaust deflector sides with others made from a beer can. Unlike Revell, Dragon provides the PE mesh screens for air intakes and that’s a good bonus.

But not all things are perfect with this kit and, inexplicably, Dragon decided to shut down the driver’s vizor. This is not a major fault, but it’s some how odd to drive a tank with this vizor closed. It was not an easy task to open it, but in the end all the effort paid off.

I continued with the superstructure and added a few details, such as some spare tracks from a Revell kit. As for the commander cupola, the trap is a little too thick if left open but it can be replaced with one from Extratech.

After that, my model was ready for paint:

Until recently, all my models were brush painted, so I was unable to try the hairspray technique, which is impossible without an airbrush. My Stug received a a good coat of white as “base paint”, and then I dry-brushed the dunkelgelb over the white. I was quite happy with the result:

After decals, fitting the tracks and some weathering with oils and pigments, the Stug really came to life.

In conclusion, this is a highly detailed kit, very easy to put together; a “must build” for every Braille lover.

If you want to acquire this set take a look here.

1/72 Revell De Havilland D.H.2

This is a pretty nice little plane to build. The actual body, wings etc fit together quite well, apart from the actual cockpit, which needs care when glueing the two halves to ensure a proper fit. Also, the Lewis gun isn’t the best representation of this weapon going..but it looks the part.

To enable “easy” rigging..I drill holes where the wires will later go, using a 0.5mm drill. I then paint all the large parts and when the paint is dry I use the tip of a pin to free any paint that has got into the holes during painting.

In the above picture you can see i am using office paper clips to hold the wing-struts to the wings. This saves having to have 4 hands 😀

To rig I use “invisible” Nylon mending thread and push it (like weaving from one hole to another) using fine point tweezers. As the thread is very thin and quite difficult to see, I advise using a marker pen to colour the end that is being pushed through the holes.

Basic method. Work out a route for the bit of rigging you want to do. It´s best to work from inner cables to outer ones. The actual route depends on how competent you feel with rigging, and I suggest rigging through a maximum of 8 holes at any one time. Take a length of thread..much longer than the route to be taken. Attach one end of the thread to a wing surface, a part of the fuselage etc with a small piece of tape, then insert the free end of the thread into the first hole..and off you go 😀

When threaded through the last hole of the chosen route, cut off the access, leaving enough to be able to pull it tight and stick down using a bit of tape. Glue (an epoxy glue like Pattex) all the holes where the thread is..let dry overnight and using a razor, cut off . Some holes may need a bit of filling (PVA wood glue works fine for this) and filling flush.


nº13 – Altaya – IXO – DeAgostini: Panhard EBR-75 FL 11

Panhard EBR-75 FL 11 – 1er REC Légion Étrangère Algeria 1957.

Technical Details
4 crew
One 75mm SA-50 gun.
105 Km/h on road, 65 Km/h off road.
3 7,5mm MG.

The Panhard was the first French reconnaissance vehicle post world war II, with a characteristic 8 rad train and a 75mm gun in a FL-11 turret.
Two central wheels were totally metallic, and commonly were elevated, used only in sandy or mud terrains.
Initial version were equipped with a FL-10 turret and a SA-49 75mm gun, but upon 1954 it was upgraded to the FL-11 turret, the same used by the AMX-13 light tank.
Lately, in 1963, a new gun was installed in the FL-11 turret, a F2 90mm gun.
As the German world war two reconnaissance vehicles they was equipped with two drivers positions, so it was capable to change direction at any moment.

Around 1200 units were manufactured, sawing service in Alger or Angola, used by Portuguese troops, which acquired 50 units.

Some different versions were manufactured for personal transport or even an AA prototype, armed with 2 30mm guns.

The Panhard series were replaced upon 1977, by the new AMX-10 RC vehicle.

Overall aspect of the model is quite correct, a best looking one in the collection, although as always with the simplified and basic detail provided by Altaya.

nº12 – Altaya – IXO – DeAgostini Sd. Kfz. 124 Wespe

Altaya – IXO – Sd. Kfz. 124 Wespe SS-Pz.Gren.Div Wiking Kharkov (USSR) 1943

Technical Details
5 Crew
40 Km/h on road 25 Km/h off road.
1 FH18M 105mm
1 MG 34 7,92mm

Based on the Pz.II Ausf.F chassis, this self propelled artillery vehicle was manufactured since February 1943 to Summer 1944, around 682 units were manufactured and they saw service until the end of the war.
It was capable to transport 32 shells with an effective range of 8.400m.
In March 1945 still were 307 units in service. First units saw service during the Kursk battle, in the 1943 summer.

One of the problems of this vehicle was the open turret, which was always a problem for the crew. Also the limited space available to load and aim the gun.
Although this model could belong to the Panzer collection it is from the newest Armour collection ones.

As always Altaya’s quality is not the best available in Diecast world, but anyway it’s a nice model, showing an interesting camouflage pattern. Interior detail is quite basic and simplified, also the gun itself is not the best part, all made in plastic.
A bit misunderstanding between the base plate and the issue, while base talk about a vehicle for Karkhov 1943 (After Stalingrad disaster) the issue talk about Kursk 43, where the Wiking was deployed as reserve.

1/72 Italeri 7058 Panzerjäger I with Pak 4.7

Panzerjäger 1 Ausf. B

  • Formal designation: 4.7 cm Pak(t) (Sf) auf Panzerkampfwagen I Ausf.B, Panzerjäger I Ausf.B
  • Type: Light Tank Destroyer
  • Manufacturers: Daimler-Benz AG, Skodovy zavody akciova spolecnost (Skoda), Altmarkische Kettenwerk GmbH (Alkett)
  • Production: 202 (03/1940 – 02/1941)
  • Crew: 4

I added some Welding Lines and some simple Rivets but i don´t want to place all the missing Lines etc. Just the few on the static Turret.
The inside of this Model is modified too, but this will be visible when the Model is finished. I had to cut out some parts to give more space for the 3 Crewmen.

The Crewmen are from SHQ and the additional Stowage is made of Resin.

One of my favourite German Tank hunters in 1/72 scale. The Italeri kit is an re-issue of the old Esci Kit. Added 3 Figures from the SHQ Range (“Bison Crew” (M1943) and some Stowage. Paints and Pigments are from Vallejo.

First i primed the whole Model with Vallejo Model Color (70995) “German Dark Grey”, after that, i applied an wash with an 50/50 Mix of Citadels “Devlan Mud” and “Badab Black”. After the wash was dried i dry brushed the whole Model. Again i used ” German Dark Grey” for the first drybrush and Vallejo Model Color (70836) “London Grey” for the Raised Areas, Edges and Highlights.

The Tracks only were primed with Grey and after that i gave them a coat of several Vallejo Pigments.

You can buy this nice model here.