Today a transport model which was used by U.S.Troops and Britain. Model can be built in an easy way for gaming and in a more complex way for collectors. I took the hard way, although it means a more fragile model, not so ready for gaming, which is my intention.
Model comes in 3 sprue, decals plus clear plastic for windows (i didn’t put the glass).
I added some Airfix/Heller cloned boxes (from the willys jeep + cargo set), a machine gun (Airfix/Heller set) and a camouflage net which i did with putty.
About the paint i used Olive Drab and Dark U.S. Green applied by dry-brush, both from Vallejo.
Here with decals:
and here with mud and dirty, and the crew, the useful Hät tank riders. To see crew in detail take a look here.
This is a build that I did about a year ago. I am lucky enough to live near Bovington tank museum home of the first armoured vehicle “little Nelly”. I drive wife nuts dragging her around the same tanks year in year out, so it was a great surprise to find out that the refit had finished and rushed down there. I had the opportunity to sit in a world war one male tank for a talk and was shocked by how cramped it was for eight men to be bumped around the battlefield being shot at and gassed by your own engine fumes. The crew used to be evacuated to rear to recover after 24hours duty. I had to get a model of this tank and ended up with the female version which has machine guns for the anti infantry role rather than armed with main guns.
The kit is only about 33 parts, two tracks and four decal options. Two British and two “Captured” German options. Looking on the Internet most of the other builds went for the British tanks so I wanted something different so went for the German tank.
The detail on these Emhar kits are cracking, lots of rivets and panels. The build of the tank was very straight forward apart from the rail on the top which I left off. According to “On the way” modelling site the instructions are incorrect and show the rail reversed. They are quite fiddly any way and I had fun building them on the Male tank so I thought better of it.
The tracks are quite simple and are the only let down, but a good covering in mud soon sorts out that problem, if you cant see it you cant complain!
This was one of the first tanks that I painted using the airbrush. I copied the camo scheme from the art work on the back of the box so please do not shout at me if it wrong. The decals are not that great but it could be down to me being useless at decals. The gloss effect is the bane of my life. The mud on the tracks came from a Tamiya weather stick and goes on just like a lipstick and gives a great look. MiG rust weathering powder was used to give it that “One careful owner” look.
I would recommend this kit to anyone that fancies a change from “Tigers” and T-34’s”.
Here is some work I did a year ago on Caesars World war two British commandos. The commandos were set up by Winston Churchill after Dunkirk to let Hitler and the British public know that they were still in the war. They were to launch raid on Nazi occupied Europe from Norway to Greece. The men were recruited from the army and the Royal marines to undergo specialized training in unconventional warfare and sabotage. Most of this training was conducted up in the rugged Scottish highlands.
This is the first new set of commandos in about twenty years so it has a lot to do with why I like them so much. They are a great rival for the old classics like the Airfix and Matchbox set. I believe the Matchbox set might be re issue in the future but do not quote me on that. The ESCI/Italeri blokes are still on the market and are well worth looking at for the earlier period of the war.
I have always been a big fan of Caesar figures, with there multi part moulding giving them more lively poses and better sculpting and detailing. This has dropped a little on the newer modern figures weapons and they do suffer from bent weapons but this is nothing that some boiling water could not sort out.
This set is aimed at the latter stages of the war and could even be used for the SAS as well. This figures would not look out of place fighting along side Partisans or the resistance in Northern France or Northern Italy. This set is screaming out for lots if head swaps and conversion with the Caesar world war two British army set to increase both sets. The same could be said for the ESCI infantry and commandos as well.
I believe that this set contains some of the best 1/72 poses on the market today. This is one of them,
The image if a soldier truding his way through the Scottish highlands on a training march was the idea behind this photo,
I will go in to detail in part two of this post on how I made this diorama base, but it was intended for another set of figures and a different war all together. All in all I am chuffed with these figures even if the wooly hat is the wrong colour and the smock is a bit iffy.
A brief tutorial about how to paint 28mm Warlord Games Roman Imperial Legionaries.
Once it is black primed, our first step is to paint silver armour parts.
1- First a base coat of Citadel Boltgum Metal (Games Workshop).
2- Wash it with Babab Black
3- Once dried, highlight exposed areas with Boltgum Metal again.
4- To ends, apply a final highlight with Mithril Silver.
If you use other paint brands, as you can see, steps uses once darker silver colours, black wash and a lighter silver color. Even if you only have one silver colour, try to mix it with black, to darkener it.
Secondly it’s time to gold areas.
1- Base coat with Tin Bitz
2- Apply a layer of Burnishing Gold over the base coat, without cover it entirely.
3- Wash with Sepia or Devlan mud.
4- Restore some parts with Burnishing Gold and a final highlight with Shining Gold.
For generic paints, steps are based in an oxide colour and two gold tones, with a brown/sepia wash.
1- Base coat with Mechrite Red.
2- Devlan Mud wash.
3- A mix of Mechrite red and Blood Red without cover all the base coat.
4- A final highlight adding Vomit brown to the Mechrite red and Blood Red mix.
For generic colours technique is based in a medium red, brown wash, and brilliant red and yellow brown or ochre. Another alternative for the final step is to apply a diluted layer of orange in the prominent areas. Don’t forget than red+white = pink, not a good way to highlight red capes. 🙂
1- Base colour is a dark brown, such Citadel Scorched Brown
2-Higlight belts with Bestial brown, pilum with a mix of scorched and a lighter brown 75%/25%, and Sandals with Khemri Brown.
3- Wash with Devlan Mud.
4- highlight each area with their step 2 colour, and for the Sandals use dry brush with a mix of Khemri Brown and Bleached Bone (Bone White)
1- Base colour with a mix of Tallarn Flesh and a bit of red.
2- Wash with Ogryn Flesh.
3- Highlight with Tallarn Flesh+Red
4- A final highlight with Tallarn Flesh.
5- To shadow eyes use a it of black or dark brown.
1- Pumice stone paste, be careful with the figure.
2- Wash with Devlan Mud or a very diluted brown tone.
3- Add static grass or tufts in some areas.
1- Black primed.
2- golden edges and Silver center.
3- Cut the transfer a bit smaller than the marks, they are some big, with the centre hole happens the opposite, it’s a bit small.
You can follow this video tutorial: How to aply Transfers.
5- If some black primed area is at sight cover it with dark brown or red.
6- Wash with Devlan Mud.
7- Matt Varnish.
Step by Step picture.
If you want to try with some Romans you can buy those here.
This is a big Siege weapon, the kit measures H: 11cm´s W: 12cms L: 18cm´s, an impressive piece for any 1/72nd medieval army.
The kit, laser cut Balsa-wood and card comes with full and easy to follow instructions. The only part of the kit that is not wood or card is the sling which is made of resin. The kit can be painted with Acrylics (oils are recommended) and I just sloshed it on. This kit got 4 separate layers of paint added and absolutely no ill affects. The walls of the bucket (counterweight) being very thin, warped with the first layer of paint but went back to their original flat condition after a minute or so.
The kit fits together really easily, all that´s needed are scalpel, tweezers, and wood-glue.
I recommend painting up ALL the parts before fitting, as when it´s put together it would be IMHO pretty fiddly to get into all the corners in order to paint them. The ladder. In the instructions it shows fitting the rungs in one go, they come on a sort of comb but it is impossible to get all the rungs lined up with the holes so I cut off every rung from the “sprue” and fitted them individually, lining them up by laying the ladder on it´s back and using two CD boxes pushed up from left and right. I dripped Revell’s liquid contact glue onto the ladder to “plastify” it and make it stronger. (I recommend doing this in a well aired place due to the fumes)
The Nylon thread provided is white..so I put it in a cup of hot water, added two old teabags and a teaspoon of instant coffee powder and left it for 1/2 an hour.
Sculpted by Markus Eckmann and available from Fredericus-rex, this set can be used for not just catapults and trebuchets but as hand-workers, labourers etc. I really like the style of these sculpts..all very natural looking (the one picking his nose 😀 ) and I hope Markus adds expands the range.
There are seven metal figures in the set, a “stretcher” for carrying a catapult ball (also included) and a sledge hammer (for banging in posts or knocking-out the firing pin on any throwing device they might be the crew of) Size wise they fit to virtually every available set of 1/72nd mediaevals.
Here they are with their trebuchet..also from Fredericus-rex.
Wargames Factory continues their WWII expansion with a U.S infantry set. Includes 30 multi-part hard plastic figures, depicting an infantry platoon for the late war, with the common weapons for their role, not any heavy weapon.
Scale models, miniatures, plastic soldiers, war gaming.